You are currently viewing 2021 A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen 142.055

2021 A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen 142.055

If A. Lange & Söhne watches are sometimes enjoying on classical design cues, there’s one sub-collection that definitely has a much more fashionable and technical vibe, and that’s the so-called Lumen vary of restricted editions. Born in 2010 with the Zeitwerk Luminous (not but named Lumen again then), the gathering has grown to turn into a few of the most sought-after and fascinating watches within the model’s portfolio. Uncommon and unique, these fashions with sapphire dials are correct treats for collectors. They usually’ll be joyful to know {that a} new one is launching right this moment, and it comes again to the roots as based mostly on the architectural watch with leaping indications… However as you’ll see, this new Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen comes with many new options, beginning with an unprecedented motion that packs a whole lot of energy. And, it’s additionally the primary Lumen to not be made out of platinum…

The Lumen Collection

Behind the Luminous/Lumen assortment, there’s a slightly enjoyable story. Anthony de Haas, Director of Product Growth of the model, whereas carrying an early model of the platinum Zeitwerk discovered that studying the time at the hours of darkness was slightly troublesome. So his staff and he began to discover the best way to give this modern-looking watch higher night-time legibility… And as soon as the discs got luminous numerals got here the thought to really present them (and a few of the motion’s technicality) by including a partially-tinted sapphire dial that, nevertheless, was slightly particular because it let UV cross by to be able to cost the luminescence of the numerals. And that is how the Luminous/Lumen collection began.

2010 – Zeitwerk Luminous “Lumen”

Again then not named Lumen (it got here with the second watch), the primary watch of the collection was the Zeitwerk Luminous, based mostly on the basic version launched in 2009, winner of GPHG. This watch, with the ref. 140.035, was made from platinum and had a dark-tinted sapphire dial, which let the discs with luminous indications seem beneath and partially revealed a few of the technical components of the motion. It was a 100 items restricted version. In any other case equivalent to the basic Zeitwerk, with leaping hours on one disc on the left, and leaping minutes on two discs on the correct. The motion is nearly equivalent to the basic Zeitwerk fashions, the hand-wound calibre L043.3 with 2.5Hz frequency and 36-hour energy reserve, with patented one-minute remontoire mechanism. 

2013 – Grand Lange 1 Lumen

Following the Zeitwerk, the model presents in 2013 a second Lumen watch based mostly on the Grand Lange 1, to be able to present the basic Lange outsized Date function in all glory, seen on by the aperture at 2 o’clock but additionally below the partially-tinted sapphire dial. This 41mm watch, reference 117.035, is a 200-piece restricted version and is made from platinum. All indications are luminous (hours/minutes, all hour markers, small seconds, energy reserve and naturally the massive date). Inside is the hand-wound calibre L095.2, with 72h energy reserve and the identical mechanical base as a basic, closed-dial Grand Lange 1.

2016 – Grand Lange 1 Moon Section Lumen

This mannequin launched in 2016 below the reference 139.035 was additionally restricted to 200 items, was additionally in platinum and in addition measured 41mm in diameter. It was an evolution of the idea launched with the 2013 version, but right here the star of the present was the luminous moon part indication built-in inside the hours/minutes off-centred dial. Identical to the earlier Grand Lange 1 Lumen, all indications, together with the Outsized Date, are coated with luminous materials, and a few of the indications are thus seen below the partially tinted sapphire dial (principally the date discs). The moon disc is adorned with a large number of small luminous stars. Contained in the case is the hand-wound calibre L095.4, but once more with a 72h energy reserve and the identical base because the basic Grand Lange Moon Section (non-lumen).

2018 – Datograph Lumen Up/Down

Following the three earlier watches, Lange launched in 2018 a brand new Lumen restricted version of 200 items, as soon as once more made from platinum, however this time based mostly on its most well-known chronograph watch, the Datograph. The thought right here with this reference 405.034, as soon as once more enjoying with {a partially} tinted sapphire dial, was to emphasise the 2 main issues of this mannequin, by partially revealing the mechanics behind the outsized date, and in addition by making the chronograph perform extremely seen at the hours of darkness, because the sub-dials and the tachymeter ring had been coated in luminous materials. The sapphire dial additionally permits a view on the highest facet of the motion. Lastly, the Up/Down energy reserve perform can be highlighted in luminous materials. The platinum case nonetheless measures 41mm in diameter and the motion stays the identical because the up to date model of the Datograph, with a 60h energy reserve. Fingers and a few of the baton hour markers are luminous too.

The brand new Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen

At first sight, you may think that this new Zeitwerk Lumen is principally the identical because the 2010 mannequin, in a distinct materials… You’d be proper to assume so after only a fast have a look at the watch and its specs. It shares the identical emblematic show – impressed by the five-minute clock in Dresden’s Semper Opera – in addition to the identical T-shaped time bridge and the very same case dimensions as all of the basic (perceive time-only) Zeitwerk, Luminous or not. However, in actuality, this new Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen is a completely new watch, with totally different proportions, a revised dial with totally different development and a brand new motion with way more energy than earlier than… And it’s additionally one with unprecedented materials for the Lumen collection. So, all in all, there’s quite a bit to elucidate.

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen

First, the case. Sure, the diameter continues to be 41.9mm and the peak continues to be 12.6mm, similar to the earlier editions of the time-only Zeitwerk watches. However, because of the new motion and a revised show – extra on that later – the case has totally different proportions. First, the bezel is now barely thinner than earlier than, making the watch visually a bit much less cumbersome. And since A. Lange & Söhne is all about respecting some historical guidelines of proportions, the lugs have additionally been revised to be sleeker. We’re speaking minor changes right here, after all, however some that might give the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen a bit extra class than earlier than on the wrist.

One of many predominant novelties with this version is the fabric used for the case. Earlier Luminous/Lumen editions have all the time been crafted in platinum, however this new mannequin is housed in a case made from the model’s proprietary Honeygold, a particular 18k alloy with “numerous admixtures and a particular thermal therapy” giving the gold extra hardness and a really refined color. Solely reserved to limited-edition watches at Lange – just like the One hundred and seventy fifth-anniversary fashions – this uncommon and hard-to-machine alloy discover its method for the primary time within the Lumen collection, however not within the Zeitwerk assortment, as used beforehand within the 2017 Zeitwerk Decimal Strike. The case retains the identical ending as earlier than, with a sophisticated bezel and lugs, and straight-brushed flanks. It’s worn on a brown alligator strap to offer a remaining heat contact, one thing that has been absent of the earlier Lumen watches, all with a black-on-grey and technical look… This Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, on this respect, feels slightly shocking.

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen

An essential new ingredient of this new Lumen watch is the presence of a pusher on the facet of the case, which was absent from earlier time-only Zeitwerk. That is the place the affect of the Zeitwerk Date reveals essentially the most, as certainly the motion of this new model is predicated on the date mannequin offered in 2019. It permits the hour indication to be switched individually, which in flip makes it easier to set the time. The minutes are, after all, nonetheless adjusted by the crown. Like within the Zeitwerk Date, the switching impulse is generated when the pusher is launched. “The benefit is that switching is all the time uniformly executed, no matter how gently or vigorously the pusher is actuated,” explains A. Lange & Söhne. And from the phrases of Anthony de Haas, this technique can be extra compact than a basic pusher (assume chronograph-like pusher) and this made it attainable to retain the identical dimensions as earlier than.

Now, the dial… Being a part of the collection of Luminous watches, this Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen is, after all, fitted with a partially-tinted sapphire dial. New for this watch, it’s not glued anymore however set in place between two O-ring gaskets, which make meeting simpler and in addition present extra resistance in case of shocks. The sapphire dial comes with a light-permeable coating that permits the luminous numerals that aren’t uncovered within the aperture (these usually hidden below the dial) to soak up sufficient UV mild glow at the hours of darkness. So not solely the numerals uncovered within the apertures are luminous, however the hidden numerals are barely seen below the sapphire dial too…

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen

The show continues to be composed of a time bridge with two huge openings revealing a single disc for the hours and a mixture of two discs for the minutes. Redesigned for the event, the bridge homes a bigger sub-seconds dial and it’s now executed in black rhodiumed German silver (as an alternative of being black coated), giving it a barely lighter and hotter tone. The ability reserve indicator continues to be positioned at 12 o’clock and each palms on the dial are carried out in 18k Honeygold.

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen

Again to mechanics, the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen retains the gorgeous show that has made the collection distinctive, which means a posh mixture of three instantaneously leaping discs, giving the time in a digital format, and all numerals are equivalent in measurement. They swap exactly and skim from left to proper. Behind this mechanism is a posh constant-force machine. Certainly, such massive discs require a powerful quantity of vitality to be launched. As well as, this one-minute remontoire (which thus drives the units-minutes disc) assures that the stability is all the time pushed with fixed energy, enhancing the precision of this watch. In brief, this one-minute spring that hundreds and unloads to actuate the soar of the discs additionally advantages the precision of the watch…

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen

However that’s not new… What’s new is the calibre L043.9, a motion that’s based mostly on the structure of the calibre discovered within the Zeitwerk Date. Nevertheless it’s greater than only a small transformation, because the date complication wasn’t a module to be eliminated, which means that this Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen required to re-think your complete higher a part of the engine. However, this additionally signifies that this new engine advantages from an structure with two barrels stacked one on prime of one other. Mixed with a lighter stability wheel and, consequently a lighter remontoire, this leads to an influence reserve that has been doubled, shifting from 36 hours up to now to now 72 hours. It’s additionally slightly sure that this upgraded motion will discover its method into the case of the common Zeitwerk in the end.

This longer energy reserve, mixed with the brand new hour-correction pusher, makes this calibre L043.9 a reasonably spectacular enchancment over the earlier technology. Composed of 462 parts, the motion runs at 18,000 vibrations/hour (2.5Hz). Seen by the sapphire caseback, the design and the ornament are as soon as once more extraordinarily interesting, with the fragile bridge on prime of the remontoire being the star of the present. The remaining is equally spectacular, with hand-engraved stability and escape-wheel cocks, solarised winding wheels and filigreed, straight-grained constant-force escapement bridge that accommodates two recessed, screwed gold chatons. All components are adorned, seen or not.

Availability & Worth

The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen (ref. 142.055) is a restricted version of 200 items, obtainable completely from ALS boutiques. It will likely be priced at EUR 114,000.

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