The Bulgari Octo Finissimo assortment is, surely, probably the most hanging watch creations of the final decade. A formidable saga turned the Roman Maison into the grasp of ultra-thin mechanical watchmaking. In just some years, the model has topped one report of thinness after the opposite. This outstanding streak of record-breaking ultra-thin watches was saluted with the Aiguille d’Or, the highest prize on the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, awarded to the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. However Finissimo can’t be lowered to a technical feat. In a category of its personal, the gathering additionally encapsulates elegant, disruptive Italian design… Nonetheless, one report was lacking for Bulgari to be the uncontested grasp of ultra-thin. That of the thinnest mechanical watch. And as all good sagas want a climax, it’s time for us to find the spectacular Octo Finissimo Extremely and its 1.8mm skinny profile…
In its relentless seek for absolute slenderness, Bulgari has earned a formidable collection of world data:
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo whole assortment, with the 8 world report watches.
There was one report lacking in Bulgari’s quest, that of the thinnest mechanical watch, a report held by Piaget with the Altiplano Final Idea. Again in 2018, Piaget had smashed a report beforehand held by Jaeger-LeCoultre (3.6mm) with this 2mm incredibly-thin watch. However Bulgari has pushed the bounds of ultra-thin even additional. At a spectacular 1.80mm, the Octo Finissimo Extremely is now the world’s thinnest mechanical watch ever created. It’s 10% thinner than the Piaget Altiplano Final Idea, which at that stage of growth is kind of one thing! In different phrases, it’s thinner than a ten cent of Euro coin (1.93mm) or about as skinny as 1 / 4 greenback coin (1.75mm).
To attain this distinctive feat, no fewer than three years of growth have been wanted for Bulgari who teamed up with motion designer and producer Concepto in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
From a design perspective, the Octo Finissimo Extremely retains all of the codes of the gathering with its signature matt monochromatic gray look. It is available in a 40mm case with an built-in bracelet with an “invisible” folding clasp matching the thinness of the case. The motion format can be according to the gathering’s cues with two separate counters for the hours and minutes, and the seconds show straight on the fourth wheel at 6 o’clock. The watch feels virtually surrealistic. The mechanism on full show creates a sure sense of depth, however its profile is really unbelievably skinny.
Reinventing All the things
Naturally, such a technical achievement requires pushing the bounds of ultra-thin manufacturing, trimming down the elements to the bounds of feasibility and dealing with essentially the most excessive tolerances. It additionally requires out-of-the-box pondering, with a whole reengineering of all the watch, reimagining every part, its structure and its capabilities.
That is what leads Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s Product Creation Government Director, to state that “the problem of this eighth report was essentially the most troublesome to beat since we needed to break the principles not solely when it comes to motion design but additionally of the case, the caseback, the bracelet and the folding clasp. To attain this diploma of thinness, you not solely must assessment your mind-set, however you have to additionally draw upon a variety of expertise, play with a number of supplies and adapt to a large number of recent constraints. On this sense, the Octo Finissimo Extremely is definitely the last word complication on this huge subject of prospects represented by ultra-miniaturisation.”
To start with, and as was the case with the Piaget Altiplano Final Idea, the caseback additionally serves because the motion base plate. Nevertheless, the Piaget case/motion plate was a one-piece part which isn’t the case right here. Certainly, the caseback and the case center of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely are bonded collectively. The bezel is screwed from the again of the watch. On the fabric entrance, the case center and the bezel are made from sandblasted titanium whereas the caseback and primary plate meeting is usual out of ultra-rigid tungsten carbide, a very exhausting and ultra-resistant alloy of carbon and tungsten to make sure the general rigidity.
The ultra-thin crystal (0.30mm) is glued to the bezel. It rests on two silicone pads positioned on screws (seen on the periphery of the barrel at approx. 3 o’clock and 6 o’clock) to protect all capabilities within the occasion of a shock.
On the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely, the motion elements are subsequently built-in straight into recesses machined into the case-back. The concept is to keep away from having totally different layers within the watch structure, making the most of all the floor of the watch, re-arranging and constructing all capabilities in the identical horizontal airplane.
On this perspective, the perform and the design of various elements needed to be utterly reimagined. One of many beginning factors was to make use of a regulator sort show with separate time indications. Naturally, this allowed Bulgari to keep away from utilizing superimposed fingers to maintain the watch thinner… and from a method perspective, it creates an 8-shaped show (acceptable for a set referred to as Octo) with the hours and minutes dials.
All the time with the concept to construct capabilities in the identical horizontal airplane, a normal crown for winding and setting the watch couldn’t be used with such a skinny watch. Bvlgari opted for 2 horizontal knobs positioned on both sides of the case – one for winding and the opposite for time setting. Every contains a ratchet wheel to permit winding and setting in a single route solely. The winding knob is unprotected whereas the time setting knob is available in between two protectors to keep away from inadvertent operations. So does the friction of the time setting mechanism, which requires a sure pressure to be operated. A differential gear mechanism is used to deal with time-setting with out disturbing the gear prepare.
The barrel ratchet wheel is so skinny that the engraving of the QR code sample on its floor concerned further engraving on the opposite facet to keep away from any deformation.
The barrel needed to be utterly redesigned too. To keep up a considerable energy reserve (50 hours regardless of the thinness of the watch and the 4 Hz frequency), the barrel of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely options an outsized diameter. Nonetheless, you might want to keep a sure thickness for the mainspring. To take action, the barrel arbour isn’t rotating in a gap in the primary plate. As a substitute, its pivot is slid to a u-shaped notch fastened onto the primary plate whereas three rollers drive the rotation.
The oscillator couldn’t characteristic a standard anti-shock gadget. As a substitute, the variable inertia stability is held in between versatile bridges that may deform within the occasion of a shock. The whole regulator module, with its two versatile bridges included, is just one.13mm thick!
A complete of eight patent purposes have been filed for this Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely. They relate to the watch glass meeting, the barrel construction, the oscillator module, the differential show, the modular construction, the bracelet, the bimetal case middle-mainplate/caseback, in addition to the Bvlgari Singvlarity expertise.
A Digital Gateway
Final, if the QR code engraved on the barrel seems fairly cool, it’s also the gateway for an unique devoted digital ecosystem that can be unveiled when the primary Octo Finissimo Extremely hits the market in a number of months’ time. Every of the ten homeowners of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely will obtain an unique NFT paintings guaranteeing the authenticity of the watch and the hyperlink to its proprietor.
Availability & Worth
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely (reference 103611) kicks off with a restricted version of 10 items as a nod to the Tenth-anniversary of Octo. The worth is ready at EUR 400,000. Hats-off to Bulgari and all of the folks concerned on this growth for creating this record-thin Octo and for pushing the bounds of the ultra-thin watch.
For extra data, please go to www.bulgari.com.