You are currently viewing Depth – A Complete Collector’s Guide to Daniel Roth and His Career

Depth – A Complete Collector’s Guide to Daniel Roth and His Career

Daniel Roth is likely one of the most exceptional watchmakers of all time. Throughout his 50-year profession, Roth has labored with numerous high-end manufacturers and designed dozens of intriguing timepieces with complicated technical options, together with a Tourbillon with an 8-day energy reserve, an instantaneous Perpetual Calendar and a Westminster Grande Sonnerie Carillon with 4 gongs. Surprisingly, not a lot is understood about his roots and early days. Watch fanatic Denny Grigolo from Italy undertook the time-consuming job of discovering every thing there may be to learn about Daniel Roth’s story. MONOCHROME is grateful and proud to publish an English recap of his four-part analysis article, Daniel Roth: Storia di un Genio. Paying tribute to one of the crucial illustrious names in up to date watchmaking essentially begins with the story of one other founding father of excessive watchmaking and genius, Abraham-Louis Breguet.

Picture by Jean Daniel Nicolas

Observe: This text has been made potential by collating information from 4 in-depth articles “Daniel Roth: Storia di un Genio“, written by Denny Grigolo on It was written by Denny Grigolo and translated and edited by Melinda Braaksma. All photos are courtesy of except talked about in any other case – opening photos are from and 

Abraham-Louis Breguet remains to be thought of the best horologist that has ever lived. Due to this fact, it ought to come as no shock that many nice watchmakers have consolidated their very own heritage by finding out his works intimately. One watchmaker, particularly, studied Breguet’s concepts and strategies, recreating a contemporary model of what Breguet had invented. His title? Daniel Roth.

Daniel Roth was born and raised in his grandfather’s watchmaking workshop in Switzerland. With timepieces as his toys, a profession within the watchmaking career was a pure step for the gifted younger apprentice. His first main milestone on the age of 18 was a diploma from the Good Watchmaking College, permitting him entry to the gorgeous world of dials, fingers and hairsprings.

Daniel Roth portrait young watchmaker

Proper from the beginning, Daniel Roth was thought of a prodigiously gifted watchmaker. After opening a small workshop, he educated himself by making use of a rigorous methodology to his creations. Quickly sufficient, one of many well-known manufacturers from the Vallée de Joux – Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus –  noticed his expertise and transferred him to its workshops the place the younger watchmaker spent seven years, readily buying the important abilities of the commerce. As gifted as he was formidable, Roth persuaded the Chaumet brothers to rent him because the technical-artistic director of the newly acquired Breguet model.

Artwork course at Breguet

When the Chaumet brothers -descendants of reputed French jeweller – purchased the Breguet model, the one factor left was a fading reminiscence of its wonderful previous. Manufacturing was all however defunct save for a collection of chronographs designed for the French Air Power and Navy. After receiving Roth’s utility in 1975, Jacques and Pierre Chaumet determined to entrust him with the formidable job of restoring the title of the best Grasp Watchmaker to its former glory.

Abraham-Louis Breguet

As soon as Roth had settled in Le Sentier, he spent over a 12 months poring over each potential supply chronicling the works of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Throughout this time, he produced a perpetual pocket watch calendar of exceptional workmanship, branded Breguet, which compensated for the price of his analysis. Quickly sufficient, it turned clear that the brand new mannequin was a triumph from each standpoint. With a transparent course in thoughts and approval for all his choices by the Chaumet administration, Roth undertook the manufacturing of Breguet’s eminently classical repertoire.

Re-inventing the Breguet Model

The coin-edged or fluted center case is likely one of the “unmistakable indicators” that, to this present day, makes a Breguet timepiece recognisable from miles away. The straight lugs, the skinny bezel to showcase the dial, the fluted center case and the cabochon winding crown are all hallmark options of the model. Treasured supplies are used for the instances crafted solely in platinum or gold. The dials are sometimes stable silver or white gold and are characterised by handbook guilloché ornament executed with a rose lathe, a way that could be very tough to grasp and of timeless allure.

2020 Breguet Classique 7137 Moon Power Reserve Silver Pink Gold 7137BR/15/9VU

On the dials, separate silver-framed counters point out the hours, seconds and different indications, relying on the reference. Flame-blued fingers are one other trademark known as  pomme évidée or Breguet fingers.

There’s additionally the key signature, conceived by A.L. Breguet himself in 1795, executed with a pantograph to forestall counterfeiting. The watches are fitted with high-class Frederic Piguet and Lemania actions (Roth collaborated intently and virtually solely with Lemania to develop many calibres), completed and customised with nice care and respect for custom.

A pantograph used to engrave the key signature on the Breguet dials

These “unmistakable indicators” underscore the identification of Breguet’s technical and stylistic masterpieces. This even handed method additionally implies that watch lovers recognise Maison Breguet as a custodian of a historic artwork marked by classical aesthetics and a singular refinement on the watchmaking scene.

References 3130 and 3330

Daniel Roth’s most important concepts and elegance of execution are completely interpreted by the references 3130 and 3330. Each are impressed by unique A.L. Breguet pocket watches: the primary references pocket watch no. 5 and the second, pocket watch no. 4579, informally known as cinesino by aficionados.

Daniel Roth’s skill to breed the 2 timepieces faithfully is manifest. The proportions are virtually excellent, and the guilloché reproduces the textures discovered of the unique. And whereas much less skilled viewers would possibly regard this as a easy job, we’re speaking about translating a Breguet pocket watch right into a wristwatch format – a job that few watchmakers are able to endeavor, to say the least. Daniel Roth carried out this job with excessive respect and ability, consecrating these two references because the cornerstones of Breguet’s renaissance.

References 3230/37 and 3050

Though the 2 references faithfully reproduced from the unique pocket watch fashions are among the many most consultant of the gathering, we can not overlook the Chronograph ref. 3237 (or 3230) and the Perpetual Calendar ref. 3050, timepieces that share the abovementioned traits.

The ref. 3237 remains to be thought of one of many most interesting chronograph problems ever made and is fitted with a manual-winding  (Lemania 2320) built-in column-wheel chronograph motion with wonderful finishings. No value has been spared within the finishings adorning the motion and dial the place handbook guilloché, framed counters, fluting and blued fingers are the protagonists of a completely discreet but balanced complete.

The ref. 3050 is a classical Perpetual Calendar, thought of among the many finest in its class by way of worth and availability. Powered by a refined calibre (Frederic Piguet 71), it shows an exceptionally symmetrical dial. In fact, this reference additionally maintains the high-quality requirements of artistry and finishings for which Roth is famend.


Though the abovementioned references are nonetheless among the many most appreciated and sought-after by collectors and lovers, the one reference that’s most intimately related to the Maestro’s profession must be the Breguet 3350 Tourbillon. And for the reason that inventor of this gadget was A.L. Breguet, Roth was decided to revive it for the model.

It’s rumoured that within the mid-Eighties there have been not more than 500 tourbillons scattered around the globe. On the time, only some watchmakers had been experimenting with this gadget and explains why Daniel Roth turned one of many main consultants within the subject. The Breguet 3350 is an absolute masterpiece of method and refined workmanship housed in a 36mm fluted yellow gold, white gold or platinum case.

Breguet’s hallmark options are current: the stable gold dial is embellished with guilloché; the silver hours and minutes counter has a satin-finished chapter ring with an engraving of Breguet’s secret signature, and the numerals are Roman. Transferring additional down is a superbly completed one-minute tourbillon with three small seconds fingers, every indicating 20 seconds on the size that intersects the hours and minutes counter. For sure, the hour and minute fingers are Breguet pomme évidée and flame-blued, as are the three seconds fingers and the seen screws. Lastly, a finely engraved valuable steel space surrounds the tourbillon aperture at six o’clock.

Transferring on to the B-side, a big bridge totally engraved utilizing a burin might be admired by means of the sapphire caseback. Even at the moment, the tourbillon casts a spell over watch lovers, and with purpose. Firstly as a result of it was invented by A.L. Breguet (extra out of necessity than as a showpiece) in 1801; secondly, as a result of the rotation of the cage is hypnotic, and thirdly as a result of the title Daniel Roth is intimately intertwined with this gadget.

From Breguet’s renaissance in 1975 and for the next 13 years underneath Roth’s technical-artistic course, the model flourished, and expectations had been amply repaid. Nevertheless, all good issues come to an finish, and following a monetary scandal, the Chaumet brothers declared chapter in 1988, and Maison Breguet handed into the fingers of the Investcorp Group.

Fortunately, a brand new journey awaited the Maestro within the Vallée de Joux when he went solo and arrange a brand new enterprise underneath his title: Daniel Roth. 

Efficiently recreating the Maison Breguet would in all probability be sufficient of an accomplishment for most individuals to relaxation on their laurels, however not Daniel Roth who selected to hold on and write historical past himself. Not a simple job, particularly for those who’re are up towards names which have not less than a few centuries of historical past behind them. However when custom, expertise and ambition are enthusiastically intertwined, the tip product can solely be certified as pure mastery.

Daniel Roth Double Dial Tourbillon C187 - Loupe This AuctionPicture by Loupe This

Roth already had a imaginative and prescient of what he needed his model to be. Now not a far-fetched thought or a undertaking, he arrange his atelier in Le Sentier, the epicentre of high quality watchmaking. Realising this imaginative and prescient was a problem  – his concepts had been a far cry from the canons laid down by the AHCI (based in 1985), and from these he developed for Breguet –  Roth persevered. In 1988 he decided that his major goal could be to create high-end timepieces on the highest ranges with a restricted manufacturing supposed solely for connoisseurs.

Distinctive options of Daniel Roth watches

Fifteen watchmakers had been employed for his workshop, every assigned a specialised job. The manufacturing prices needed to be saved low, and the concept was to switch all the talents and data that Roth had acquired to his new co-workers. This was the place the double ellipse case, a particular options of Roth’s watches, was born.

The signature double ellipse case

The double ellipse case was produced solely in 18k gold or platinum and consisted of three components: the caseback, the case physique and the bezel. The lugs had been straight and welded to the central a part of the case. The sapphire glass was flat. Even at the moment, it stays one of the crucial lovely and impactful instances within the watch panorama.

The bottom actions used had been amongst the very best, corresponding to Frederic Piguet, Lemania or Jaeger-LeCoultre. As soon as within the workshop, all of the actions had been modified and completed with specific care regardless of the closed caseback (in many of the early references). Of specific be aware is that lots of the intricate ending patterns, corresponding to perlage, anglage, Côtes de Genève, polished screws, soleilage and guilloché had been executed manually, with out the help of computer-operated machines. Within the case of skeletonisation, Roth himself labored on the actions leading to calibres of the very best order.

The fingers had been arrow-shaped and manufactured from blued metal. The dials executed in multi-level gold, following the British model, had been finely hand-decorated with guilloché with a predominance of ligné (lined) and Clous de Paris patterns. There have been refined knurlings (a sample of straight, angled or crossed strains) and silver counters that always intersected. The Roman numerals had been engraved with a burin (besides uncommon instances) after which fastidiously crammed by hand. Lastly, the dials displayed the complete title DANIEL ROTH and the distinctive variety of the watch – many components which are paying homage to his work at Breguet.

Utilizing conventional craftsmanship, stylistic innovation, valuable materials, and small manufacturing portions, Roth discovered a method for writing an necessary web page in watchmaking historical past. his portfolio, you will need to admit {that a} gifted genius was at work right here.

The primary collection – 1990-94

Stylistic coherence characterised each single masterpiece. By adapting processes and options throughout his expertise at Breguet, Roth unveiled his first collection of watches. The abovelisted options listed remained virtually an identical for every mannequin all through future manufacturing.

Daniel Roth C107 Further-Plat

The reference C107 was the right expression of a chic gown watch. It was discreet with a lowered thickness, which boosts the form of the case that sits completely on the wrist. A cautious inspection reveals the finesse of its refined classicism. 

The case in yellow, white or pink gold, with a dimension of 35mm x 38mm and a peak of 5.6mm, housed a properly completed Frederic Piguet 71 automated calibre, which is among the many thinnest ever produced, with a decentralised rotor completed with a guilloché sample. The dial is manufactured from stable white gold with guilloché and a Clous de Paris ornament, or in gray gold with line guilloché, a fluted rim close to the bezel and the chapter ring in satin-finished silver with Roman numerals. The blued-steel fingers had been arrow-shaped. A model with a black gold dial with Clous de Paris and silver fingers was additionally accessible.

The Daniel Roth C107 Extraplat

The Daniel Roth C107 is just not the one mannequin within the assortment to suit into the gown watch class. The truth is, there was additionally the C167, a hand-wound midiplat (or midplat), with a splendid Frederic Piguet 21 motion completed with the utmost care. Measuring 34.5mm x 31.5mm and a thickness of 6.8mm, the case was at all times gold (yellow, white, pink), and the gold dial was embellished with guilloché (there was additionally a model with an onyx dial).

The Daniel Roth C167 midplat

Daniel Roth C147 Two-counter Chronograph

The ref. C147 is the two-counter chronograph that Daniel Roth offered in his first collection. There was additionally ref. C147S, a skeletonised watch, wherein the Grasp exhibits his skill to open plates, bridges and barrels and carry out refined hand engravings utilizing a burin.

The instances of the C147 had been gold (yellow, white, pink) or platinum and measured 35mm x 38mm with a peak of 10.6mm. Inside was a hand-wound Lemania 2320 motion, completed based on the specs of the Maison. The dial was stable gold (white, gray, black) with ligné or Clous de Paris decorations. It had an hour and minute chapter ring and satin-finished silver chronograph sub-dials. The fingers had been flame-blued (besides within the model with a black gold dial the place they’re silvered).

There’s additionally a reference (produced in small portions and due to this fact very uncommon) with a Venus 179 rattrapante chronograph motion. 

Daniel Roth monopusher chronograph

The monopusher chronograph is a restricted version of 52 items. The motion dates again to the Nineteen Thirties and is a hand-wound Lemania 2220 tailored with important adjustments to the double ellipse case in yellow gold or platinum. The case measurements elevated to 38mm x 41mm with a peak of 11.5mm. The caseback has a sapphire crystal that reveals the motion. The gray gold dial was for the 16 items produced in platinum, whereas the gentle rose gold color was for the 36 items in yellow gold.

Daniel Roth C127 Retrograde

The reference C127 is likely one of the most profitable masterpieces made by Daniel Roth. Absolute technical know-how in its complication and a dial designed with an unbelievable savoir-faire, with a depth and class tough to seek out in different timepieces. Roth discovered his inspiration in a pocket watch created by George Daniels, one of many best watchmakers of the century.

The gold (yellow, pink, white) or platinum instances measured 35mm x 38mm with a thickness of 10.7mm and contained a hand-wound Lemania 27LN motion, completed at high degree and modified to carry a retrograde complication. The stable gray gold dial featured a ligné end and the hour-minute-seconds rings had been satin-brushed silver with Roman numerals. The fingers had been flame-blued. This mannequin additionally exists underneath the reference C127S, a skeletonised model produced in small portions. Observe: this model has Arabic numerals. The diploma of skeletonisation and engravings was extraordinarily excessive.

Daniel Roth C117 Semi-Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar

The Daniel Roth C117 was a undertaking conceived and created with Philippe Dufour. The primary prototype was offered in 1991. On paper, it was destined to grow to be the primary totally instantaneous perpetual calendar, with all indications leaping at midnight. Sadly, attributable to technical issues associated to the moment leap of the calendar discs, it didn’t see the sunshine of day till a semi-instantaneous model appeared in 1995. However, it could possibly nonetheless be thought of an necessary novelty, and its invaluable stylistic options nonetheless make it one of the crucial refined perpetual calendars ever produced. 

Picture by Phillips Watches

The case is in 18k gold (yellow or pink) and measures 35mm x 38mm with a peak of 11mm. The motion inside was a self-winding Lemania 8810 base motion and a further plate for the ETA-derived calendar module, all completed based on the excessive requirements of the model. The stable gray gold dial featured a guilloché ligné sample; the silver rings displayed a satin ending with Roman numerals to point the time and Arabic numerals for the calendar shows, and the fingers had been flame-blued.

Daniel Roth C189 Minute Repeater

Probably the most esteemed problems additionally discovered a spot within the Roth assortment: the minute repeater. If it weren’t for the distinction in thickness, one might even mistake it for the extra-plat for the reason that dial had an identical traits. But, the case aspect left little question about its performance with a set off to interact the minute repeater.

Three gold variations (yellow, white, pink) had been produced with a case of 38mm x 37mm and a peak of 10.8mm. The motion was a Lemania 389, which was completed with excessive care. The gray gold dial featured ligné decorations, the satin silver hour ring had classical Roman numerals and the fingers had been flame-blued.

Daniel Roth C187 Tourbillon

The reference C187 might be the very best creation of Daniel Roth underneath his eponymous model. An absolute masterpiece each from a technical and stylistic standpoint. The mannequin has an general concord that also at the moment makes it one of the crucial desired tourbillons of the period. Admiring this masterpiece sums up all of the expertise gained by Daniel Roth as much as that second in time. You may see the soul and dedication he should have needed to make this his finest creation ever.

The case is in 18k gold (yellow, white, pink) or platinum, measuring 35mm x 38mm with a peak of 11mm. The motion is derived from the hand-wound Lemania 387, modified and completed on the highest ranges. On high of the tourbillon cage are three fingers of various lengths, every of them operating exactly alongside the 20-minute graduated scales. This improves and simplifies the show of the seconds in comparison with the earlier creation carried out in a Breguet tourbillon (the 3350). 

The dial is stable gold and has a gray color with guilloché of ligné sort, the hour-minute disc has the traditional Roman numerals and is in satin-brushed silver in addition to the frames that point out the variety of the watch, the model title and the seconds. Refined decorations divide the assorted components on the dial and the fingers are flame-blued.

This reverse aspect of this reference can be relatively distinctive and includes a secondary dial on the again with a date sub-dial and an influence reserve indicator, which thus maintain the entrance dial clear. Nevertheless, small portions with out this extra dial had been produced, and have a single plate engraved and embellished with a burin, similar to the Breguet 3350 Tourbillon. Lastly, there’s additionally the reference C187S, a skeletonised model of the Daniel Roth tourbillon.

Attention-grabbing details in regards to the early Daniel Roth watches

    Because of the good demand of the Italian market, 10 metal variations of the next references had been created: C107, C117, C147 and C187. On the time, the Italian market had a robust affect on the success of assorted luxurious watchmakers. It’s no coincidence that many Daniel Roths had been offered in Italy, testifying the significance of this market.
    The presentation field of the primary collection was a black counter field with an oblong black leather-based field inside each marked with the initials DR. The guarantee and authenticity papers had been signed by the Grasp and comprise all of the traits of the timepiece.
    From the second Daniel Roth opened his atelier to the 12 months 1994, there isn’t any exact determine of what number of watches got here out of the workshops. It’s rumoured that not more than 400 watches had been produced per 12 months.
    The reference with the most important manufacturing numbers is, surprisingly, the C187 Tourbillon.

Daniel Roth’s autonomous manufacturing lasted from 1988 to 1994. Six full years underneath which Roth created a few of his most necessary items, creating an immediately recognisable model, but additionally defining the idea of contemporary unbiased watchmaking. The model was profitable from a inventive and a manufacturing perspective, however, for causes which are nonetheless unclear at the moment and linked to the financial scenario of the time, Daniel Roth transferred nearly all of his shares to Singapore-based The Hour Glass Group.

With the intention of accelerating turnover, the brand new homeowners determined to undertake a brand new technique and to assault the market with extra reasonably priced timepieces, favouring the extra sporty varieties, utilizing much less valuable supplies in a transparent technique to cut back prices. The gold or platinum instances had been typically changed by chrome steel equivalents, the multi-level gold dials with guilloché patterns had been changed by stamped dials with vivid colors, the Roman numerals had been exchanged for Arabic ones, the flame-blued fingers had been painted, and in some instances, the size had been elevated and new, built-in bracelets appeared for the primary time within the historical past of the model.

Nevertheless, the ultimate outcome was typically relatively poor and disappointing in lots of points, an unbelievable involution each by way of strains and manufacturing strategies. The market didn’t reply positively to the distorted and hybrid timepieces that had misplaced their identification. In 2000, THG needed to file for chapter and to go away every thing within the fingers of one other well-known group.

Watches carried over from the primary collection

Beneath the THG course with its questionable dials and easier processes, the genius of Roth nonetheless managed to creep into among the watches. Roth nonetheless has one thing up his sleeve and a few noteworthy fashions from this era are based mostly on his very first manufacturing collection, regardless of being virtually marginalised by the brand new homeowners. On the worth lists some references of the primary collection had been accessible for a couple of years.

Daniel Roth C207 and C257

Each references C207 and C257 consult with the preliminary idea of Daniel Roth, actually, they completely embody the concept behind the primary collection. The reference C207 has an 18k gold case (yellow, white, pink) and measures 35mm x 38mm with a peak of 8mm. It’s powered by a fastidiously completed automated motion of Lemania origin. The gray stable gold dial is guilloché with satin silver sub-dials. The numerals are Roman and the fingers with the traditional arrow form are flame-blued.

The reference C257 has the identical traits, the distinction is within the dimension that’s lowered to 34.5mm x 31mm, and a peak of seven.2mm. Concerning the latter reference, a small variety of timepieces with a superbly completed hand-wound JLC motion was produced in 1995.

Daniel Roth C117

As already talked about, firstly of the Nineteen Nineties, the prototype of the instantaneous perpetual calendar was offered, but it surely wasn’t launched till 1995 in a semi-instantaneous model. Subsequently, the skeletonised model was offered with fingers as an alternative of discs indicating the day of the week and the month, which implies that the undertaking was accomplished and had reached its purpose. Within the following years, the ultimate model appeared (altering the time base) simply because it was conceived with the instantaneous calendar, exhibiting the fitting indications on the discs.

Daniel Roth C317 Papillon

For apparent causes, the reference C317 is taken into account by collectors because the final actual creation of Daniel Roth himself. It was launched in a restricted model of 250 items (110 white gold, 110 rose gold, 30 platinum) in 1998 to commemorate the tenth anniversary of the model. It’s a true technical masterpiece paying homage to the primary collection produced by Roth.

The watch boasts a leaping digital hour show (from 1 to 12 with out distinction of day/night time) by means of a generously sized window. The minutes use a retrograde indication, following a 0-60 scale virtually totally lined by the central seconds. At first look, you may sense the mechanical complexity of getting such a complicated show in a traditional timepiece.

The enduring double ellipse case measures 35mm x 38mm with a peak of 9.8mm; the bottom motion is a self-winding Girard-Perregaux GP3000; and the dial is completed in silver/ruthenium (Daniel Roth was one of many pioneers in the usage of ruthenium) finely embellished with two various kinds of guilloché. The matte silver counters are framed by a knurling sample and the numbers are Arabic for the hours and for the minutes. The fingers are flame-blued.

When the Singapore-based THG group acquired a majority stake in Daniel Roth, the concept was to relaunch the model with a totally completely different product, making it extra accessible and sportier with watches that had been completely different to the preliminary identification of the model. The method was considerably complicated and the market didn’t reply positively, forcing the THG group to promote the model after declaring chapter.

Daniel Roth was then acquired by Bulgari (which additionally purchased Gérald Genta). Nevertheless, the Italian group specified the sale of all shares, together with these of Daniel Roth himself.

The Bvlgari philosophy

Not like the THG group, Bvlgari’s administration determined to provide the newly acquired model a clearer course. Many timepieces had been produced and a few, though not adhering to the founding rules outlined by Roth within the early years, had been noteworthy. Minute repeaters, tourbillons, perpetual calendars and massive dates had been simply among the problems that Bvlgari determined to incorporate in Daniel Roth watches. The instances elevated in dimension and had been barely modified (such because the crown that was partially set into the case physique). The dials had been closely modified with new designs and new ending strategies, corresponding to enamelling (for instance within the Athis III mannequin) and the return of guilloché patterns – some from conventional lathes, others utilizing digitally managed machines.

The Athis III, representing the Bulgari Period of Daniel Roth

The bottom motion that was utilized in many of the fashions (recognized to be dependable and able to internet hosting problems) was nonetheless the GP3000. Different outsourced actions had been used, and most of them had been of excessive execution.

Daniel Roth Reference 307 Minute Repeater

In comparison with the primary Minute Repeater created by Roth, this reference differed in dimensions and peak (39mm x 36mm and a peak of seven.5mm), the case was gold (pink, white) or platinum, and it had a small seconds show. The gold dial with a ruthenium-finish was embellished with two guilloché patterns. The motion was the calibre 13000 by Gérald Genta (made potential by the fusion of each manufacturers underneath the Bulgari group).

Daniel Roth Reference 197 Tourbillon

The tourbillon watch additionally modified model, the gold case (pink or white) elevated to 43mm x 40mm and a peak of 12.9mm, introducing an open caseback to point out the second dial with date and energy reserve. The motion was nonetheless supplied by Lemania, and was excellently completed. The dial had a relatively coarse Clous de Paris sample in comparison with the fashions of the primary collection and it was executed in stable gold with a silver end. The tracks subsequent to the tourbillon (nonetheless in matte silver) additionally modified form, which meant that the cage of the tourbillon needed to change. The plate beneath was not matte however completed with Geneva stripes. Fingers had been nonetheless blued, utilizing the traditional Roth arrow design.

Daniel Roth Reference 208 Datomax

This reference was offered shortly after the acquisition of Daniel Roth by the Bvlgari Group. It was a pleasantly designed timepiece with an 18k gold case (yellow, pink, white) of 35mm x 38 mm and a peak of 8.6mm. It contained a GP3100 motion, finely completed and embellished.

The dia stable argenté gold featured ligné or Clous de Paris ornament. The matte silver chapter ring housed generously sized Roman numerals. The complication on this reference was the massive date which was composed of two overlapping discs, considered one of them in sapphire. The fingers are flame-blued metal.

In 2000, Daniel Roth definitively left the corporate he created and was free to find out his personal future. Along with his spectacular know-how, he might have adopted a secure path by settling in any Maison within the Swiss Jura. Nevertheless, being virtually neighbours, Philippe Dufour helped Roth visualise his future. Advertising, boards of administrators and financiers are worlds the place Daniel Roth doesn’t belong: his solely mission is watchmaking expressed on the highest degree. In 2001, Daniel Roth determined to launch his personal undertaking based mostly in Le Sentier: a brand new model named Jean Daniel Nicolas.

A Complete Collector's Guide to Daniel Roth and His Career from Breguet to Jean Daniel Nicolas

The Jean Daniel Nicolas Venture

In 2001, and now 55 years previous, Daniel Roth began the second a part of his profession as an unbiased watchmaker with the creation of Jean Daniel Nicolas. Free of constraints and buildings, Daniel Roth determined to dedicate all of the data he had earned through the years, and within the new undertaking every thing is executed on the highest potential ranges.

Few components are sourced from outdoors the manufacture, solely springs, rubies, glasses and instances. All the remaining is produced in probably the most conventional manner and above all by hand, with out the help of digitally managed machines. Fingers, plates, wheels and barrels are simply among the elements created at his workshop and it’s apparent that the extent of ending is as excessive as might be anticipated. And it’s exactly on this manner that Daniel Roth returns to his nice love, the Tourbillon, the one he encountered at Breguet a few years earlier than. His two-minute tourbillon is the one wristwatch Roth makes at the moment, delivered on the charge of simply two watches a 12 months.

The Jean Daniel Nicolas two-minute Tourbillon

Jean Daniel Nicolas’ manufacturing relies solely and solely on this complication and the entire undertaking takes place within the purposeful enchancment of the usage of the timepiece, with aesthetics at all times on the service of efficiency.

Two variations of the two-minute tourbillon can be found, each are united by the identical high quality. The substantial distinction is within the form. A model with a traditional spherical 39mm case and a 40.7mm x 32.7mm formed model, which bears the stylistic traits of his ellipse instances from the previous.

Jean Daniel Nicolas’s two-minute tourbillons absolutely symbolize the idea of “the definitive watch.” Discreet dimensions, valuable supplies, excellent craftsmanship, small manufacturing portions are simply among the points that outline this manufacturing. The motion, totally created in Daniel Roth’s personal workshop from scratch, has an influence reserve of 60 hours provided by two barrels, a frequency of 18,000vph and is offered by means of the open caseback with a singular plate in German silver – not rhodium-plated – in an effort to receive a extra vivid brilliance within the engravings and decorations.

As for the ornament, evidently the Grasp took inspiration from an previous American pocket watch that had an uncommon Côtes de Genève end. Falling in love at first sight with this ornament, he determined that he would undertake it to his two-minute Tourbillon, the principle function is the semicircular motion given by a relatively complicated method, not less than in comparison with the traditional Côtes de Geneve. So far, Daniel Roth is the one one to provide timepieces with such a refined ornament. The anglage is expertly accomplished by hand, and so are the engravings.

As for the dial, there’s an plain Roth model, with Roman numerals within the higher a part of the dial – with an arched monitor that signifies the facility reserve with Arabic numerals – and within the decrease half, there’s the Tourbillon. And it’s exactly this two-minute tourbillon that represents the technical and aesthetic maturity of the Grasp. In comparison with early Roth fashions, the seconds scale is positioned within the decrease a part of the dial. It’s indicated alternately by two fingers of various colors (one in gold and one in blued-flame metal) matching the cage. A fancy and finely completed bridge sits on high, with spectacular ornament mixing anglage and sharpening.

Information about Jean Daniel Nicolas

    The title Jean Daniel Nicolas is fashioned by the primary names of the members of the Roth household: Jean is Roth’s son, Daniel is clearly the Grasp himself and Nicolas is his spouse
    The Jean Daniel Nicolas two-minute tourbillon has the weird function of getting the third wheel fastened and the fourth wheel cell contained in the cage, whereas often, it’s the reverse
    The flame-blued seconds hand is manufactured from metal, which provides weight to the cage and makes adjusting the tourbillon a problem
    So far, Jean Daniel Nicolas produces two timepieces a 12 months on commission-basis solely and it appears the purpose is to extend manufacturing to 3 items
    So far, round 30 tourbillons have been produced between the 2 shapes

Speaking about Daniel Roth at all times elicits intense feelings. Info is just not available and the modesty of the Grasp, collectively together with his modus operandi, have contributed to creating a picture that goes past watchmaking itself.

The advantage of getting resuscitated Breguet would have discouraged any daredevil as soon as the journey was over, but with dedication and expertise, Roth constructed a brand new idea whereas remaining devoted to traditions, inserting his title on timepieces that may stay for posterity.

You may learn the 4 in-depth articles “Daniel Roth: Storia di un Genio” written by Denny Grigolo on