You are currently viewing Five independent watchmakers that got rid of the conventional crown

Five independent watchmakers that got rid of the conventional crown

The standard little crown. At first look, it doesn’t look all that spectacular. Every watch has one, proper? They usually all just about do the identical: wind and set a watch. Positive, it will probably look just a little totally different from model to model and watch to look at however at this time’s crown system stays pretty unchanged for nearly 180 years. There are watchmakers, nonetheless, who search to eliminate this protruding little knob that digs into your wrist every so often, probably inflicting you discomfort. With that in thoughts, we check out 5 watches that provide a unique resolution to the age-old standard crown.

The historical past of the crown on at this time’s watches will be traced again to John Arnold, who first developed a crown for winding and setting a watch. Over time this was perfected by illustrious watchmakers like Abraham-Louis Breguet and Louis Audemars. In 1844, Adrien Philippe (one half of Patek Philippe), invented and patented the keyless winding system as we just about understand it at this time. This could change most of all different present methods, and regardless of developments in know-how and supplies stays the go-to system to set and wind a mechanical watch.

Ressence Sort 3 BBB

Ressence has made it a behavior to create visually putting, pebble-like watches just about from the model’s launch onwards. Whereas initially the watches nonetheless used a standard crown, it was the Sort 3 that first got here with out one. It resulted within the sleekest, smoothest potential trying watch and following collections wouldn’t see a return to a traditional crown set-up. Ressence transferred all of the functionalities to the caseback. Within the Sort 3 BBB as an illustration, you merely grip the sapphire crystal and rotate it in some way to wind it or set the time, date and day of the week. Genius!

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Fast Info – 44mm x 15mm – black DLC-coated titanium case – totally polished – two domed sapphire crystals with AR coating – black with white dial – biaxial satellites for hours, thermal gauge and days of the week – white minute hand – rotating date on aspect of case – indications stuffed with inexperienced Tremendous-LumiNova – ETA 2824/2 base, in-house ROCS module with magnetic transmission – anthracite strap with honeycomb sample – produced for 1 12 months solely – EUR 36,500

Jacob & Co Astronomia Tourbillon Artwork Static 4 Skulls

There’s no beating in regards to the bush with Jacob & Co, as just about all of the watches are extravagant and super-expressive. However don’t let the showmanship idiot you, there’s some correctly advanced mechanical watchmaking happening. The Astronomia assortment, residence to quite a few very restricted editions and one-off items, is definitely provocative but in addition one which is freed from the standard crown. As a substitute, two flip-up winders built-in into the caseback are used to wind and set the watch. Setting the watch leads to spinning the satellite tv for pc show beneath the massively domed sapphire crystal. The mannequin you see right here is the most recent version, named the Astronomia Tourbillon Artwork Static 4 Skulls.

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Fast Info – 50mm x 25mm – 18k pink gold case – sapphire crystals with AR coating – 30m water-resistance – 3D 18k rose gold skulls with cabochon eyes – aventurine base dial – skeletonized titanium dial with lacquered Roman numerals – Calibre JCAM25, hand-wound – 384 elements – 42 jewels – 21,600vph – 60h energy reserve – double-axis tourbillon – hours, minutes – rotating diamond – rotating globe – restricted version of 6 items – USD 660,000

Cyril Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity Energy Reserve

The Eccentricity Réserve de Marche by Cyril Brivet-Naudot is watchmaking of an entire totally different order. This younger unbiased watchmaker crafts his watches totally by hand, with out the usage of any CNC machine or subcontractors. Solely the hairspring, jewels and sapphire crystals come from suppliers and every little thing else is completed in home, by hand. The Eccentricity Réserve de Marche began out as a one-off commissioned piece however has since been made out there to order. The motion has nineteenth century impressed “Libre Excentrique” escapement, a singular approach of indicating the time, and a refined energy reserve indicator. Flip the watch over and two little keyholes grow to be obvious, for each setting and winding the watch. It is a little bit of a return to historic watchmaking, completely befitting the unique philosophy of the Eccentricity.

Cyril Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity Reserve de Marche

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Fast Info – 38.5mm x 10.5mm – handmade silver or gold case – sapphire crystal on either side – reverse crystal with keyholes for winding and setting – 30m water-resistance – dial-mounted outsized stability wheel – off-centred time show – grained mainplate – key-wound calibre with libre excentrique escapement – 18,000vph – 40h energy reserve – 27 jewels – straight wound barrel – hours, minutes, energy reserve indication – made to order solely – base worth of EUR 120,000

Remy Cools Tourbillon Souscription

As a freshly graduated watchmaker from the Lycée Edgar Faure on Mortea, Remy Cools got here onto our radar via his montre d’école. Regardless of his very younger age, he exhibits great ability and has since advanced his faculty watch mission into the Tourbillon Souscription, restricted to only 9 items. He’s reworked and improved it in a number of key areas, however it nonetheless follows the unique idea. Your entire motion is handmade, with a one-minute tourbillon within the decrease half of the dial, and an hour and minute dial within the higher half. A highly-domed sapphire crystal covers all of it. On the bottom you will notice two flip-up keys for winding and setting of the watch, with a formed sapphire crystal revealing extra of the motion. All the pieces is meticulously hand-finished to Haute Horlogerie requirements.

Remy Cools Tourbillon Souscription

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Fast Info – 40mm x 15mm – chrome steel case – high-domed sapphire crystal – flip-up keys for winding and setting on caseback – formed sapphire crystal caseback – 30m water resistant – off-centred hour and minute subdial with Breguet-style fingers – dial-mounted outsized tourbillon – hand-wound mechanical motion, produced in-house by hand – 18,000vph – 36h energy reserve – hours, minutes – 9 watches produced solely, per subscription order – EUR 85,000 excl. taxes

Romain Gauthier Status HMS Stainless Metal Meteorite

Romain Gauthier is taken into account probably the greatest watchmakers within the trade, and revered for his stage of ending and a spotlight to element. His work is fascinating from each angle, particularly in advanced items such because the Logical One and the Perception Micro-Rotor Squelette. Rather less advanced, however no much less spectacular is the Status HMS, which stands for Hours, Minutes, Seconds. Whereas the dial is comprised of Henbury Octahedrite meteorite and really interesting by itself, it’s the bottom of the watch the place the HMS actually shines. The Calibre 2206 HMS includes a flat crown nestled into the caseback. When in its authentic place, it may be used to wind the watch. Pull it out one place and you may modify the blackened metal fingers. On the similar time you’re doing this, your granted a view of the attractive formed and completed bridges and Romain Gauthier’s signature gears.

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Fast Info – 43mm x 12.1mm – chrome steel case, polished and satin-finished – flat crown on caseback for ergonomic winding, pulled out for setting – sapphire crystal on either side – 10m water resistant – Henbury Octahedrite meteorite dial – blackened metal fingers – Calibre 2206 HMS, in-house – hand-wound – black NAC-treated bridges and rhodium-treated gears – handcrafted and -finished – 128 elements incl. 22 jewels – 28,800vph – 60h energy reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds – restricted to 10 items – CHF 68,000 earlier than taxes