You are currently viewing Four stand-out artisanal watchmakers we’ve seen at Geneva Watch Week

Four stand-out artisanal watchmakers we’ve seen at Geneva Watch Week

As advocates of the entire mechanical watchmaking business, sharing the fervour for watches every day, even we generally uncover really fascinating new folks, manufacturers and watches. We’ve at all times had a devotion to bringing you the perfect within the enterprise, and this consists of offering a podium to the smallest of the small. We’re madly smitten by folks dedicating their complete life to painstakingly creating what they consider is the absolute best watch. And in true artisanal watchmaking, which means by hand, on their own or with a really small staff, and with super quantities of persistence. Through the latest Geneva Watch Week, we acquired up shut with 4 such watches by small unbiased makers, typically working solo. Some acquainted faces, and a few completely new, however all of them equally fascinating and astounding to behold.

Earlier this yr revealed three Sunday tales (Half 1, Half 2, Half 3) the place we listed a number of the finest unbiased watchmakers outdoors of Switzerland. In a way, in the present day’s checklist is considerably of an encore to these three articles. True, three of the 4 are based mostly in Switzerland, which stays the guts of the business in spite of everything, however that doesn’t essentially imply the maker is native Swiss.

We begin our journey in Switzerland, with one native-born Swiss watchmaker and one with Japanese roots. We shortly leap the border into Germany for a well-known face earlier than rounding off the quartet with a French watchmaker residing in Switzerland. We received’t go into too many particulars as of now as we’ll very doubtless cowl every one in a stand-alone article quickly as a result of we positively really feel they deserve our unbridled consideration. With that in thoughts, let’s get into issues, lets?

Notice from the editor: Do take into consideration that a few of these watches have been prototypes, or accomplished simply moments earlier than the beginning of the truthful week. So in some you may discover small imperfections upon nearer inspection.

Philippe Narbel and his Narbel & Co Roots watch

We begin issues off with a newcomer to the unbiased watchmaking scene, however one to certainly maintain in your radar. Philippe Narbel is a particularly humble man who began out as a jewelry maker earlier than switching to watchmaking. Following the profession change, he honed his talent working for Audemars Piguet. Subsequent to his newly based Narbel & Co watchmaking atelier, he additionally owns and runs Manufactor SA, an organization that focuses on ending methods.

The Roots watch is the primary creation beneath his personal title, Narbel & Co and is a stunner within the steel. The TV-screen formed case instantly grabs your consideration nevertheless it’s all of the minute little particulars upon nearer inspection that basically make this a stand-out piece. The German Silver dial is completed with a grey-black PVD coating. The sterling silver sq. within the centre has a sample which is the results of a mistake Philippe Narbel made in his jewellery-making days. It’s distinctive and weird, but blends in completely with the remainder of the watch. Or the sculpted indices that arch down from the sloping fringe of the dial.

And turning the watch over reveals but extra of this dedication to element. Right here can also be the place you can find the one identification of its maker, engraved into the bridge of the motion. What you see here’s a closely reworked and upgraded Peseux 7001 guide wound calibre. The motion is sort of unrecognizable and is transformed right into a case-matching TV-screen form. Once more, the main points are merely breathtaking, with frosted finishes, engravings and hand-applied anglage. All the motion is framed by a sloping flange replicating the sloping outer perimeter of the dial.

If we’re speaking about revelations in watchmaking, to me, this could be top-of-the-line ones I’ll get to witness this yr. The Narbel & Co Roots watch is an typically much-needed horological breath of recent air coming from one of many nicest guys you’ll ever meet. Philippe Narbel just isn’t in it for the title and fame, however reasonably for the deeply-rooted ardour he feels and the creation of friendships and communities. He’s certainly one to observe.

For extra info, please go to Narbel&Co.com (beneath development on the time of writing) or his Instagram account.

Fast Details – 40mm x 40mm x 10mm top – stainless-steel or rose gold case – TV-screen form – sapphire crystal back and front – grey-black PVD coated German Silver dial with sculpted indices and ornamental sterling silver centre panel – skeletonized hour and minute fingers – Peseux 7001 motion, reconstructed and completed in-house – guide winding – hand-applied frosting, anglage, perlage, engravings – 21,600vph – 42h energy reserve – bespoke strap made per consumer’s specs – CHF 44,000 (in metal) or CHF 57,000 (in gold)

Yosuke Sekiguchi and the Primevère watch

The story of Japanese-born Yosuke Sekiguchi is outstanding, to say the least. Born in Isesaki, Japan, Yosuke Sekiguchi had a childhood dream of being an expert watchmaker, which introduced him to France and in the end Switzerland. Following his research in watchmaking, he labored for motion specialists La Joux-Perret and at high-end unbiased Christophe Claret. Throughout his years within the business, he additionally restored a historic Jules Jürgensen pocket watch motion from 1871 (a LeCoultre ébauche) and transformed it to a wristwatch. To today, that very watch may be discovered gracing Yosuke’s wrist.

This classic ébauche would function the inspiration wanted for him to interrupt out on his personal in January of 2020. Not the perfect timing I’d say, however that hasn’t deterred Yosuke Sekiguchi one bit. He painstakingly recreated the classic motion by hand in his private workshop and created a particularly refined and easily beautiful watch, the Primevère.

Admittedly, when considering of a historic pocket watch motion this previous, the overwhelming majority was constructed to run and lacked any ornate ornament or ending. However from whichever angle you take a look at it, the Primevère is just about flawlessly completed to Haute Horlogerie requirements. Nearly the complete motion is constructed by Yosuke Sekiguchi himself. Constructed of German Silver, the bridges are reduce and completed completely by hand, with bevelled edges and round brushing. Additionally, word the 2 gold caps for the stability wheel and pallet lever, stylistically carried over from the unique inspiration.

Whereas there’s way more to find across the again, the entrance is sort of as equally as spectacular and continues in a method match for the unique Jules Jürgensen pocket watch. A white or black two-piece Grand Feu enamel dial is completed with refined spade-and-whip fingers mixed with printed numerals and markings relying on the chosen case materials. The Yosuke Sekiguchi Primevère is available in a metal or rose gold case with a 39.5mm diameter. The peak is a little bit shocking, at 12mm however a direct results of the historic development of the motion. On the wrist, you don’t discover the thickness of the watch in any respect and it’ll certainly be appreciated by whoever is fortunate sufficient so as to add it to his/her assortment. We certainly can be!

Yosuke Sekiguchi doesn’t have a private web site or social media channels however for extra info, please contact Koyanagi-Tokei.com (representatives of Yosuke Sekiguchi’s work).

Fast Details – 39.5mm x 12mm – stainless-steel or rose gold case – sapphire crystal back and front – 30m water resistant – two-piece Grand Feu enamel dial in white or black – printed blue or black numerals and markings – spade-and-whip hour and minute fingers – Calibre YS-Y01 – guide winding – 18,000vph – 40h energy reserve – made to order – CHF 51,000 in metal or CHF 56,000 in rose gold (each excl. taxes)

Marco Lang and the Zweigesicht-1 watch

Marco Lang is a reputation that certainly rings many bells with collectors and fans. By means of his work of Lang & Heyne, Marco Lang has been energetic within the watchmaking business for a few years now. Previous to that, he restored clocks and scientific devices. After leaving Lang & Heyne he began engaged on his new solo challenge beneath his personal title. Offered in 2020, the Zweigesicht-1 was Marco Lang’s first mannequin beneath his eponymous atelier. And boy what a watch that is!

It took us some time to get our fingers on it to {photograph} and expertise it in actual life however is each bit as spectacular as the pictures made us consider it might be. The cool factor concerning the Zweigesicht-1, which suggests ‘two-faced’ in German, is the very fact it comes with an interchangeability system that permits you to rotate the case and alter from “enterprise” to “get together”. With the watch comes a particular screwdriver that you should use to unscrew each lug-ends, flip over the watch, and reattach the lugs. And voilá, identical to that you simply’ve gone from an beautiful but conventional dial to the Zweigesicht-1’s extravagant aspect.

The watch is offered in metal, rose gold or platinum and is produced in very restricted portions (18 items solely). Nearly each part in every watch is made by Marco Lang himself, utilizing conventional instruments and methods. The ML-01 motion is sort of particular, as you’ll be able to see from the secondary, totally openworked aspect. It incorporates a double-barrel system, a blued Breguet hairspring with a home made four-legged stability wheel and a singular shock-indication system.

Every part is completed to Haute Horlogerie requirements with polished and bevelled edges, flame-blued parts, hand-applied engraving, and many others. On the opposite aspect of the watch, you get a classical dial with slender Roman numerals and a quilloché motif on the centre part. A delicate but refined contact is the very fact the hour hand extends as much as the ring that separates the 2 sections of the dial. It’s all performed very properly and provides an enchanting double-view of artisanal watchmaking. Conventional on one finish, avant-garde on the opposite.

For extra info, please go to MarcoLangWatches.com

Fast Details – 40mm x 12.5mm – stainless-steel, rose gold or platinum case – sapphire crystal on either side – particular case with detachable lug module – conventional dial in silver with Roman indices, guilloché motif and pencil fingers – openworked reverse dial with white-fired skeleton components, translucent Grand Feu enamel and cathedral fingers – Calibre ML-01, in-house – manually wound – lever escapement with free four-legged stability – blued Breguet hairspring – 70h energy reserve – twin time indication, shock-indication system – alligator strap with an interchangeable system – restricted to 18 items – priced from EUR 51,500 excl. VAT

Sylvain Pinaud and the Origine watch

Sylvain Pinaud is a comparatively new and upcoming watchmaker who studied watchmaking on the Lucée Edgar Faure in Morteau, France. We’ve gotten to know him by way of his wildly inventive and mechanically very spectacular Chronograph Monopoussoir. This was a watch he designed and constructed from scratch by himself, to enter a contest dedicated to craftsmanship in all types of industries (cheese-making included) unfold throughout a number of classes. The principle standards for competing is that the product must be made utilizing conventional, artisanal methods. Sylvain received the highest prize within the Precision Strategies class, which we are able to totally perceive.

It has been a bit quiet since we first met Sylvain, however that doesn’t imply he has been dormant all that point. Fairly the opposite in actual fact, as a result of earlier this yr he offered his newest challenge, the Origine. And boy what a watch that is! It appears vastly totally different from his extravagant Chronograph Monopoussoir, with a way more conventional fashion and development. But, the Origine is equally as unbelievable as his break-out watch, simply with a totally totally different design.

The Origine contains a 40mm broad and 11mm tall totally polished stainless-steel case. Whereas easy in form and development, it’s the excellent canvas for the unbelievable off-centred dial and motion that reside between the 2 sapphire crystals back and front. The dial is elevated from the motion and contains an hour and minutes show with a small seconds subdial. The underside half of the watch’s face is dominated by the escapement mechanism with a free-sprung stability. It’s held in place with a straight bridge, which together with the fingers can be made in 18k pink gold.

The again of the motion reveals the winding mechanism and click-spring nestled in a three-quarter plate with finger bridges over some parts of the working gear. Nearly every part you see is made by hand, or with the assistance of specialist subcontractors. For the motion, solely the jewels, mainspring and barrel spring are outsourced (which often is the case). On the entrance of the watch, the dial is made by Comblemine, which is thought to be top-of-the-line dial producers within the enterprise. There’s completely nothing to complain about on this, because the result’s completely gorgeous. So far as artisanal watchmaking goes, that is about nearly as good because it will get!

For extra info, please go to Sylvain-Pinaud.com

Fast Details – 40mm x 11mm – 316L stainless-steel case, polished – sapphire crystal back and front – 30m water resistant – handmade silver dial with off-centred hour and minutes and small-seconds show – Breguet-style hour hand – in-house made guide wound motion – 22 jewels – 21,600vph – 55h energy reserve – free-sprung stability with Phillips spiral – bespoke choices out there upon request – EUR 65,000 to EUR 68,000 excl. VAT relying on execution

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