We’ve mentioned it repeatedly time and again right here, at MONOCHROME… The sports activities watch with built-in bracelet is just the most well liked, most fascinating and most (commercially) profitable watch class lately. With out shock, we’ve seen dozens of manufacturers coming into the style, from accessible luxurious powerhouses to small impartial watchmakers. We are able to’t blame them, as they’re merely answering the demand for such watches. And for the reason that concept appears to be working more often than not, there might be much more newcomers. The most recent in line is one which we clearly didn’t anticipate… A Dresden-based model specialised in refined and traditional watches. Right here’s the brand new Lang & Heyne Hektor.
When you consider Lang & Heyne, you might need this type of watch in thoughts. Traditional, refined, barely old-school, sometimes German timepieces of uncommon execution, with ultra-decorated hand-made actions, as soon as once more inbuilt a typical Saxon method. Primarily based in Dresden, created by Marco Lang (who has since left the corporate to create his personal model) and Mirko Heyne, Lang & Heyne is a part of a gaggle named Tempus Arte, which additionally owns Stowa and, vital for the remainder of this text, a motion producer named Uhren-Werke-Dresden (UWD), based mostly underneath the identical roof as L&H. Figuring out the kind of watches which have been produced till now underneath the title Lang & Heyne, saying that this new Hektor mannequin is a shock is definitely an understatement. It’s a complete new route for the model.
The Lang & Heyne Hektor
As you’ll be able to see from the photographs offered by the model, the brand new Lang & Heyne Hektor is a transparent departure from what we’ve been used to see from the Dresden-based manufacture. Not solely the design and general fashion are completely different, but additionally the general spirit. If the earlier creations had been classics with a deep haute-horlogerie contact, together with actions made in a really private fashion, this new watch strikes into sportier territories with extra accessible specs – price-wise and technically talking.
With out falling solely into the traditional components of the Nineteen Seventies-inspired luxurious sports activities watches, such because the RO or the Nautilus (the Hektor shouldn’t be as skinny, not as sharp, not as sporty), it does nonetheless options some components to make it a so-called metal sports activities watch with built-in bracelet. The case, made from stainless, is barely formed with lug modules which might be built-in into the remainder of the case – which means no traditional leather-based strap right here – and combines brushed and polished surfaces. It has a shocking semi-protected crown, recessed into what may very well be seen as a crown guard module. Total, the design is easy and tender, not as angular as different members of the class. Sapphire crystals are discovered entrance and backside and there’s a good 50m water-resistance.
As for the bracelet, you’ll discover a 5-link profile that follows the curvature of the casebands and combines brushed and polished surfaces too. A correct novelty for the model, this bracelet is closed by a butterfly folding clasp and is connected to the case by the technique of screws.
The dial is likely to be essentially the most shocking aspect of the watch. If it certainly feels sportier than earlier creations the model, the Lang & Heyne Hektor retains some components seen in previous watches, such because the classically formed palms. The dial is all about textures. The centre is characterised by a repetitive “petticoat” sample. On the hour chapter ring with concentric grooves, you’ll discover metallic utilized markers with the identical “petticoat” form. All components of the show are crammed with Tremendous-Luminova and the seconds hand is gold colored. However, the boldest aspect is the metallic half between 6 o’clock and the centre axle of the palms, revealing some a part of the motion beneath.
The Lang & Heyne Hektor might be accessible in three completely different colors; darkish blue, medium gray and darkish inexperienced. I do know we tend to depart private judgments out of the equation with regards to design right here at MONOCHROME – all of us have completely different perceptions of shapes/colors – however right here, I’m somewhat sceptical this watch, with an odd mixture of components. The mix of conventional elements – palms, opening within the dial, general tender design – with sportier components – metal bracelet, crown guard – gained’t be to everybody’s style for positive. I do know these are solely press photos, and we’ll have higher judgment if we see the watch within the metallic, however for now, I’ll go away my determination on pause. Ps. you’ll be able to share your preliminary emotions with us within the remark field on the finish of this text.
The Calibre UWD 33.2
The motion of the Lang & Heyne Hektor can be somewhat completely different from the good-looking hand-made calibres we’ve seen previously from the model. But, it doesn’t imply that it isn’t 1. very interesting 2. not performed in-house anymore. In reality, this motion may really feel acquainted to you. It’s certainly produced by Uhren-Werke-Dresden or UWD, a sister firm of Lang & Heyne, and was as soon as utilized by Sinn in a higher-end watch (with a unique structure, nonetheless).
The Calibre UWD 33.2 is a hand-wound (once more, a alternative that some will in all probability query, as an automated motion would make extra sense) motion that’s characterised by an general gentle and aerial really feel, but additionally a contemporary, sharp design. Giant, at 33mm in diameter, it’s composed of a mess of small triangular bridges holding in place the wheels of the gear prepare. The structure is extraordinarily nice, and in typical Lang & Heyne conventional, the ornament (if not on the identical stage as earlier creations) is made to excessive requirements. It consists of matte surfaces, straight brushes on the principle plate and small bridges, polished bevels, polished countersinks. And the a number of pointy elements are actually making this motion distinctive.
The motion of the Lang & Heyne Hektor – right here a centre seconds calibre – can be technically superior and comparatively skinny (4.4mm). It includes a self-developed eccentric stability, a tremendous adjustment and a flying barrel. Additionally, all body elements and driving prepare wheels are made from Arcap, a non-magnetic materials with a really particular sheen when polished. This motion runs at 3Hz and shops as much as 48 hours of energy reserve when totally wound.
The Lang & Heyne Hektor, regardless of the color of dial chosen, might be priced at EUR 16,900 (incl. German taxes). It’s restricted to 33 items per color (99 items in whole). For extra particulars, please go to www.lang-und-heyne.de.