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On – NOMOS Orion and Tetra Neomatik Silvercut

If you have a look at the core assortment of NOMOS, you’ll simply see that silvery-white dials and spherical, polished metal instances is someway the definitive look of most vary of watches. And from that, the model has managed to create a particularly constant and distinguishable assortment, inside a mere 20-year interval. However NOMOS can be recognized for including a contact of eccentricity infrequently, with small colored accents, and a little bit of enjoyable and freshness of their trendy expression of the Bauhaus fashion. After which, there’s a dial that’s aside, and likewise fairly enticing, the Silvercut. And right now, we’ll take a better have a look at two very (very) completely different watches. One may be essentially the most traditional, the opposite the boldest…

These watches, surprisingly, have rather a lot in frequent and, on the similar, really feel solely completely different. They share the identical motion and the identical dial end, however all the things else couldn’t be extra reverse. Have a look at these two watches one subsequent to a different and I’m certain that you just’ll make your selection in lower than 1 second. However what they share in frequent is fairly essential.

The Silvercut dial

Apart from the youthful and extra vibrant dials discovered within the Membership or Tetra assortment, most traditional fashions from the NOMOS vary – assume Tangente, Metro, Ludwig, Orion, Ahoi or Zurich – have traditional, galvanized or silver-plated dial with black or darkish blue printings, and possibly only a contact of color on the small seconds or the identify of the watch. Fairly easy and efficient, however not what you’d name provocative. But, it’s additionally why we love NOMOS and why it made a reputation for itself. On this trade, consistency has confirmed to be fairly an essential issue of success.

But, innovation and creativity are additionally essential to remain contemporary and to create envy, and NOMOS may also handle that in a really environment friendly manner. It may be with the usage of brilliant, vivid color, it may be by creating heat and barely extra luxurious, or it may be, like right here, by creating one thing that displays the place the place NOMOS watches are designed – that’s Berlin – with an industrial, minimalistic, barely arty vibe and an excessive rigour that’s damaged by small, funky particulars.

Nomos Orion and Tetra Neomatik SilverCut

The concept with the Silvercut dial was to create a texture, a graphic sample that’s first very rigouristic, but additionally playful and modifications in depth and color relying on the environment, the best way you put on the watch and the ambient gentle. The best way to attain the dial might have been easy… a metal plate with a brushed end. However not, NOMOS has determined to make issues extra sophisticated, ensuing on this Silvercut dial being fairly enticing within the metallic. The method – which isn’t solely revealed – entails a mixture of gold- and rhodium coating creating depth within the color and metallic reflections, and likewise a wet-blasting course of to disclose the feel of the dial. And certainly, when trying on the Silvercut dial carefully, you’ll see that it isn’t merely brushed. Additionally, relying on the ambient gentle, it brings energetic reflections, from gentle silver to darker gray, but additionally hotter or colder colors. The mix with a snailed and recessed small seconds additionally brings depth to those dials.

Nomos Orion and Tetra Neomatik SilverCut

However, as you’ve seen, the dial isn’t all the things with these watches. And whether or not you select to have it within the Orion case or within the Tetra case, the result’s pretty completely different… to say the least.

The NOMOS Orion Neomatik Silvercut

Let’s begin with essentially the most traditional aspect of the spectrum, the Orion. This watch is, with the Tangente, essentially the most traditional expression of NOMOS’ design, with extraordinarily clear traces, easy shapes and an nearly absence of bezel that leaves the main target totally on the dial. Refined, restrained, it’s the traditional class “à la NOMOS.”

Nomos Orion and Tetra Neomatik SilverCut

With this Orion Neomatik Silvercut, the model gives a watch that’s slender, elongated with a relatively compact diameter of 38.5mm for its polished stainless-steel case. The habillage of the watch is someway lowered to the important, with nearly no bezel, straight and clear traces, a simple crown and a barely domed sapphire crystal. In the identical vein, the arms and indexes are discreet batons however they’re finely executed and regardless of being silver-coloured, they’ve greater than sufficient distinction – because of the polished floor – to supply nice legibility.

Nomos Orion and Tetra Neomatik SilverCut

On the wrist, this slender and restrained apparel makes for a refined watch, one thing that the 8.7mm peak solely reinforce. However, as all the time with the Orion, understand that the lugs are lengthy and that it’ll put on extra like a 41mm mannequin. As such, this makes the entire idea of the Silvercut dial very seen and current, and the feel mixed with small touches of pink (small-seconds hand and motion identify) provides the required contact of discreet eccentricity.

Powering this watch is the Neomatik motion, also called the in-house DUW 3001. This ultra-thin computerized motion measures solely 3.2mm in peak however is massive sufficient for the small-ish instances of the model, at 28.8mm. The specs are traditional in any other case, with a 43h energy reserve and the presence of the in-house Swing system. The ornament is nice, with skinny ribbings and blued screws.

Nomos Orion and Tetra Neomatik SilverCut

The NOMOS Orion Neomatik Silvercut, following the remainder of the watch, is worn on a discreet black Horween Real Shell Cordovan strap. Usually closed by a pin buckle, till December 31, this watch comes solely outfitted with the NOMOS deployant clasp. It retails at EUR 3,060.

Fast information: 38.5mm x 8.7mm – polished stainless-steel case, sapphire crystal, 50m water resistant – Silvercut dial with rhodium-plated and polished markers and arms – Calibre DUW 3001, computerized, 3Hz frequency, 43h energy reserve – 19mm black Shell Cordovan strap – reference 342

The NOMOS Tetra Neomatik Silvercut

With this second mannequin, as stated at the start, you couldn’t do extra completely different than the Orion. All the pieces on this watch is the entire reverse of the opposite mannequin. If the Orion is all about discretion and classicism, the Tetra is solely essentially the most hanging watch of NOMOS.

Nomos Orion and Tetra Neomatik SilverCut

The identify Tetra makes is sort of clear on what to anticipate with this watch. It’s Greek for “4 of one thing” and is relatively applicable for such a sq. watch. And right here, I imply a correct sq. watch, with nothing rounded or angled. It’s a pure sq. of 33mm x 33mm with sharp angles, a design that you just don’t fairly often in watchmaking – sq. watches are not often true squares and have rounded angles, however not on this case. That alone makes the Tetra fairly a particular watch. Additionally, regardless of the scale that seem small on paper – 33×33 – the case has a diagonal of 46mm and thus way more wrist presence than what you’d count on. It’s flat on all surfaces and mixed with double-stepped lugs. Sure, the NOMOS Tetra makes fairly an announcement.

Nomos Orion and Tetra Neomatik SilverCut

Opposite to the Orion, the Silvercut dial on the Tetra is mixed with printed numerals – that are shared with the Tangente – and blued arms. However on this context, it’s principally the horizontal sample that takes its total sense, being so in step with the case itself. The commercial feeling is even stronger right here and the best way this dial performs with spherical and sq. shapes is fairly fascinating… so long as you go the barrier of that sq. case – which, personally, I discover very troublesome. It actually is a watch that you just’ll select knowingly.

Beneath the sapphire crystal is similar ultra-thin, computerized in-house calibre DUW 3001 as above. Once more, classically, this watch comes with a black strap crafted from Horween Real Shell Cordovan. However, till December 31, this watch comes outfitted with the Sport bracelet with no worth distinction. This metallic “strap” (sure, it seems nearly like a strap greater than a bracelet) with its brushed end and skinny horizontal hyperlinks works nice with the dial’s texture and provides an much more hanging contact to this watch. After all, you too can choose a traditional leather-based strap later. The watch retails for EUR 3,140.

Nomos Orion and Tetra Neomatik SilverCut

Fast information: 33mm x 33mm – polished stainless-steel case, sapphire crystal, 30m water resistant – Silvercut dial with metal, tempered blue arms and printed markers – Calibre DUW 3001, computerized, 3Hz frequency, 43h energy reserve – 20mm metal Sport bracelet with winged clasp – reference 423

For extra particulars and on-line orders, please go to nomos-glashuette.com.

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