Some watches are extra particular than others… The truth that we’re speaking a couple of perpetual calendar manufactured by Patek Philippe is already a primary clue. The truth that it’s a salmon dial watch with a white metallic case is barely including to this specialness… Proper, however what actually makes the 5320G Perpetual Calendar particular, whether or not this new salmon model or the lately discontinued cream-coloured model right here, is the design, its inspiration and its general classic class. This watch was shocking when first launched in 2017, and the brand new rose gold-coloured opaline dial brings an much more fascinating dimension to this watch. And right here is it stay.
A watch impressed by a number of historic fashions
As we’ve defined lately in our articles in regards to the Annual Calendar Journey Time 5326G and the Inexperienced Lacquered 5270P, Patek has modified. It has developed totally on the design facet, with watches which might be in step with the expectations of a brand new, youthful clientele who need edgier, extra informal designs and hues. In my books, the watch that actually marked the transition from typical Patek classism to the brand new era (that of Thierry Stern) is the Calatrava Pilot Journey Time 5524G of 2015. A extremely controversial watch that made a number of noise when introduced… From basic designs seen up to now, we entered right here a brand new era of watches, with classic inspirations and bolder designs.
Though far much less controversial than the Calatrava Pilot, the 5320G Perpetual Calendar is, to me, the second watch that actually marked this evolution of design and general vocation of Patek watches. Once more right here, classic references are clear and this watch was meant to be a brand new step within the historical past of the model’s QPs. Much more informal and user-friendly than, as an illustration, the all-time basic references 3940 or 5140 – spherical watches with refined circumstances and conventional show. The 5320G, when introduced in 2017 (first with a cream-coloured dial) performed on completely different tendencies. Nonetheless extraordinarily refined and chic, however not the identical sort of class as earlier than. Identical to in menswear, the place the 3-piece gray flannel swimsuit has been changed by a well-cut pair of denims with a tailormade tweed jacket and a pair of effective Italian loafers, the 5320G brings a extra relaxed class. Extra in step with present expectations and life-style.
The primary serially produced QP, the Patek Philippe 1526, that includes the long-lasting show used on the 5320G – credit Christie’s
Behind the design and show of the 5320G Perpetual are literally 3 completely different historic Patek Philippe fashions. One for the show, one for the model of the dial and the general inspiration, and one for the form of the case/lugs. As mentioned, Patek certainly creates classic impressed watches as of late, however doesn’t actually copy the previous in a trustworthy approach, and nearly by no means makes use of one particular mannequin as a supply. First, the show of the 5320G is a nod to Patek’s very first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Reference 1526. Launched in 1942, and produced in solely 210 examples, it’s noticeable additionally due to its refined, streamlined show with two apertures for the day and month, in addition to a subdial for the date and moon – one thing equivalent is discovered on the 5320G.
The Distinctive Patek Philippe 1591, the principle inspiration for the dial of 5320g
Then there’s the model inspiration, which is predicated once more on a historic Patek Philippe watch, the distinctive reference 1591, which gave away its military-inspired dial with luminous markers and arms. A distinctive chrome steel perpetual calendar, a watch that was unknown to literature and the market till 1996 when it was first provided at public sale, it was owned by a Maharaja who was carrying this strong timepiece sometimes when enjoying polo. This distinctive piece, with a water-proof metal case and central second introduced a selected luminous dial, with painted Arabic numeral and blued syringe arms stuffed with luminous materials. This watch, final offered by Christie’s in 2007 for a formidable CHF 2,513,000, is now uncovered on the Patek Philippe museum. And it’s the place Patek might need discovered the inspiration for the dial of the 5230G.
The Patek Philippe 2405, which impressed the lugs of the 5320g – credit Bonhams
Lastly, an essential component of the design of this watch are the lugs, and once more, they don’t come out of the blue, however are primarily based on the case of the Patek Philippe reference 2405, a easy 3-hand watch from the Forties, but with a really particular Artwork-Deco case with gadroons and triple-stepped claw lugs.
The brand new Salmon Patek Philippe 5320G
As we reported on this article, we had been anticipating the cream-coloured 5320G to be discontinued this 12 months. We had been in some way already regretting this watch, till the 2022 Version of Watches and Wonders and the presentation of two new salmon-coloured watches; the 5172G Chronograph and the current 5320G Perpetual Calendar – be aware that these two watches had been already intently associated, with the identical design for the case and the dial, nevertheless till now in very completely different colors (blue and cream). Now, each can be found in salmon and are actually linked.
The general recipe of the 5320G, now that includes salmon, has not modified a lot in comparison with the earlier cream-coloured version. It definitely is barely a dial animation, however one that actually has some enchantment. As such, the specs and a lot of the design options have been stored alive, and don’t take into account this new 5320G-011 to be a era two mannequin. The dial, the markers, the show and the case are all equivalent.
The fantastic thing about the Patek Philippe 5320G Perpetual Calendar comes at first from its fantastically formed case. Measuring an affordable 40mm diameter, with a top of 11.13mm, it’s nonetheless made right here of 18k white gold, and completely polished. One thing relatively particular, this case is stamped and never milled – a course of normally reserved for lower-end watches, however the advanced form of the lugs and the necessity to receive ultra-sharp side required using stamping. And since Patek doesn’t solder lugs to the case, this was the one strategy to receive these beautiful triple-stepped lugs. And the polished surfaces are, as soon as once more, flawless and executed to a formidable stage.
Total, this case has a sheer, plain refinement and class, one thing actually charming, discreetly authentic, however not within the conventional approach. As I defined, it’s extra informal, much less strict, and fewer formal and that makes this watch one thing particular. If I had one grievance, that may be the strap. The standard itself is to not be blamed. However this shiny brown alligator strap feels a bit outdated in comparison with the remainder of the watch. However there’s nothing dangerous right here, a strap might be modified very simply.
The large information this 12 months is the incorporation of a salmon dial on the Patek Philippe 5320G Perpetual Calendar, as a alternative for the cream dial we’ve recognized from 2017 to 2022. As mentioned, nothing has modified and there’s nonetheless this navy inspiration discovered within the luminous Arabic numerals and the syringe arms – regardless that I do know Patek doesn’t like this identify, these are positively syringe arms. All are made out of 18k gold after which anthracite coated for distinction. The show stays the identical too, with this straightforward, streamlined perpetual calendar composed of a date/moon subdial at 6 o’clock, two apertures for the day and month at 12 o’clock, and eventually two small round apertures for the day-night indicator and the bissextile year.
Then there’s this relatively distinctive salmon tone. There are lots of methods to acquire a salmon color, essentially the most basic being to make use of a rose gold coating on the dial. However relying on the ending of the bottom dial, this may end up in very completely different watches. Take as an illustration our Montre de Souscription 1, with a galvanic pink gold tub and a brushed dial. After which in contrast it to this Salmon 5320G, which additionally used rose gold coating… however with an opaline course of on a clean texture. Due to this uncommon ending, the dial of this new mannequin is sort of distinctive and really mushy in color. However no much less enticing. It’s completely different, but very Patek certainly.
Contained in the case is identical motion as earlier than, primarily based on the automated Calibre 324 with a centrally-mounted rotor – utilized in varied easy Calatravas, within the Nautilus 5711 up to now, within the Aquanaut, and as a base for the annual calendars or for the 5496. This motion is provided with the model’s in-house applied sciences, such because the Gyromax stability and Spiromax stability spring, and is licensed by the Patek seal. The ornament is nice, regardless that it’d lack a little bit of extravagance and heat. Lastly, its energy reserve of 35-45 hours feels barely outdated in comparison with the competitors. However being automated, this drawback is nearly forgivable.
The Patek Philippe 5320G-011 Perpetual Calendar Salmon dial is now accessible (effectively, as at all times with Patek, the notion of availability is to be taken with precautions) and is priced at EUR 84,700. For extra particulars, please go to patek.com.