You are currently viewing Six watches by independents that wowed us during Watches & Wonders

Six watches by independents that wowed us during Watches & Wonders

Working across the Palexpo centre and the remainder of the town of Geneva through the Geneva Watch Week not too long ago, wasn’t solely in regards to the information coming from the Richemont Group and different attending mainstream manufacturers. It was additionally very a lot in regards to the artistic aspect of watchmaking, typically the sphere of play for impartial manufacturers. With a formidable variety of indies launching a complete vary of fascinating new fashions, we had a tricky time narrowing all the things down to simply six new watches. However, right here they’re, showcasing that impartial watchmaking may be very a lot alive and nicely!

Armin Strom Orbit

The crew of Armin Strom by no means fail to impress us, with a mixture of modern mechanics and alluring designs. In recent times we’ve seen Armin Strom embracing resonance expertise in a number of very spectacular watches, as an example. For 2022 the model has envisioned a brand new strategy to show the date operate, and its equal elements are uncommon and intriguing. The sporty Armin Strom Orbit has a hard and fast ceramic bezel adorned with the dates of the month. The advanced mechanism, which is nearly absolutely uncovered, comes with an on/off operate activated by a pusher within the caseband. A memory-setting ensured the central hand jumps again to the proper date once more and jumps backwards from 31 to 1 to keep away from confusion with the impartial place (straight up). The Armin Strom Orbit is restricted to 25 items solely and priced at EUR 31,300.

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Fast Details – 43.4mm x 12.6mm – stainless-steel case – fastened ceramic bezel with date scale – sapphire crystal back and front – 50m waterproof – off-centred black gold dial – numerals and indices with Tremendous-LumiNova – in-house made palms with Tremendous-LumiNova – Armin Strom Calibre ASS20, in-house – computerized with micro-rotor – 297 parts – 25,200vph – 30 jewels – 72h energy reserve – Geneva-drive equal drive barrel – offset hour and minutes, small seconds, column-wheel date, energy reserve indication on the barrel – stainless-steel bracelet with folding clasp – restricted to 25 items – EUR 31,300

De Bethune DB28GS JPS

For these of you with even solely a touch of Components 1 information, the letters “JPS” should absolutely get your pulse racing. It’s perpetually linked to the fantastic black-and-gold Lotus “John Participant Particular” branded Lotus Components 1 vehicles of the Seventies and Eighties. De Bethune has used this iconic three-letter designation and the accompanying color scheme for the newest iteration of the DB28GS. It has a black zirconium center case, black stainless-steel caseback and bezel, sapphire crystals on each side and signature swivelled lugs. The dial aspect options extra black and gold particulars, such because the stability bridge and palms. The motion is provided with a completely mechanical gentle system operated by a pusher at 6 o’clock. It’s worn on a black pure rubber strap with black stainless-steel folding clasp. Restricted to 50 items solely, it retails for CHF 105,000 excluding taxes.

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Fast Details – 44mm x 12.8mm – black zirconium and stainless-steel case – sapphire crystal on each side – crown and pusher at 12 and 6 o’clock – 100m waterproof – black grade 5 titanium minute dial – rotating bezel with metallized minutes ring – black titanium hour and minute palms – built-in fully-mechanical lighting system with twin-barrels and pusher – Calibre DB2080, in-house – hand-wound – 400 parts – 28,800vph – 51 jewels – 5-day energy reserve (120 hours) – hours, minutes, seconds, energy reserve indication – black rubber strap with stainless-steel folding clasp – restricted to 50 items – CHF 105,000

F.P. Journe Vagabondage 1 Gold

The Vagabondage saga by F.P. Journe is without doubt one of the most fascinating tales in impartial watchmaking. Due to its uncommon form and show of time, and to not point out the unimaginable motion and ending, have garnered a really sturdy following by collectors. The Vagabondage might be traced again to a trio of distinctive items submitted to Antiquorom for a charity public sale 18 years in the past. The response was so sturdy, that three business collections adopted. The brand new Vagabondage 1 Gold returns to the soul of the very first, introduced in 2004, however with an up to date motion. Time is learn by a wandering and leaping hours disc with aperture, and a minute monitor. The disc rotates as soon as each hour and jumps ahead one place each full hour. Within the center, a sapphire disc reveals the stability and escapement of the Calibre 1504.2, made in gold. It’s restricted to 68 items, with allocation prioritized by collectors who need matching numbers with earlier Vagabondage editions. The worth is obtainable upon utility solely.

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Fast Details – 45.2mm x 37.5mm x 7.6mm – flat tortue formed 18k crimson gold case, brushed and polished – sapphire crystal back and front – wandering hours on slate gray disc – silver cell aperture for hours – peripheral railway-style minutes monitor – sapphire disc within the centre of the dial defending the stability and escapement – screwed metal parts on every nook – F.P.Journe Calibre 1504.2 in rose gold – manual-winding – 21,600vph – 50h energy reserve – two barrels in parallel – straight-line lever escapement – black alligator leather-based strap with 18k gold folding clasp – restricted to 68 items with precedence allocation for matching serial numbers of Vagabondage II and III in gold – worth on utility

H.Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

Most individuals may affiliate H. Moser & Cie with funky, fumé styled closed dials and a design so pure it just about doesn’t want the model’s brand to be identifiable as a Moser watch. But, there’s additionally a really technical aspect to the model, showcased by the gorgeous Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton. The signature fumé type dial remains to be there, nonetheless, shriveled and positioned off-centre on the prime of the watch. It provides strategy to the fully-skeletonized HMC 811 motion that powers it, which is regulated by a one-minute flying tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring. This hairspring is made in-house and formed by hand, with 2 Breguet curves. The motion is wound by a skeletonized gold rotor and has a operating time of 74 hours. All that is set in Moser’s sturdy Pioneer case, executed in stainless-steel. It’s worn on a black alligator leather-based strap and is priced at CHF 79,000.

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Fast Details – 42.8mm x 11.7mm (with out crystal) or 15.3mm (with crystal) – screw-down crown – domed sapphire crystal with sapphire crystal caseback – 120m waterproof – skeletonized building – off-centred funky blue fumé dial for hours and minutes – utilized Globolight indices – hour and minute palms with Globolight inserts – one-minute flying cylindrical tourbillon – Calibre HMC 811, in-house – absolutely skeletonized building – bi-directional pawl winding system with skeletonized gold rotor – 74h energy reserve – hand-shaped cylindrical hairspring with 2 Breguet curves – hand-stitched black alligator leather-based strap – metal folding clasp – CHF 79,000

HYT Supernova Blue Moon Runner

Simply a few weeks in the past, the not too long ago revived HYTrecently revived HYT launched the subsequent chapter in its meca-fluidic watchmaking journey, the Supernova Blue Moon Runner. This highly-complex piece follows the Hastroid, which relaunched the model in January of this 12 months. Whereas the Hastroid supplied you with “simply” the time and an influence reserve show, the Supernova Blue Moon Runner provides a day, month and 3D moon part show to that. Smack-bang in the course of the “dial” is a two-tone rotating sphere with an eye-like arm coming down from the 12 o’clock place. Surrounding the moon part show is a date ring and a month ring. Time is indicated by HYT’s party-piece, the liquid-filled capillary for the hours, pushed by two mechanical bellows, paired with a rotating minute indicator. From all angles it is a very spectacular piece, restricted to simply 27 items solely, costing CHF 100,000 every.

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Fast Details – 48mm x 52.3mm x 13.3mm – gray and blue sandwich-constructed titanium case – screw-down crown in black titanium – domed sapphire crystal – 50m waterproof – Supernova blue fluid hour show with luminescent numerals – matte black minutes monitor with triangular indicator – months and day rings in black – central spherical moon part in black and blue with round aperture – Calibre HYT 601.MO – proprietary motion, developed by Eric Coudray – hand-wound – 41 jewels – 28,800vph – 72h energy reserve – retrograde fluidic hours, minutes, months, date, 3D moon part – two-tone black rubber with blue Alcantara with black titanium clasp – restricted to 27 items – CHF 100,000 (excl. taxes)

Trilobe Une Folle Journée

The poetically named “Une Folle Journée”, which roughly interprets to “a mad day” pushes the unique idea of the Trilobe show of time to new horizons. Following the Les Matinaux and Nuit Fantastique collections, the “Une Folle Journée” is a extra technical, deconstructed execution. Coated by a high-domed sapphire crystal is an openworked show of three rotating rings for the hours, minutes and seconds. In between, you get a full view of the operating mechanics beneath, which is fairly neat! The motion remains to be primarily based on the Calibre X-Centric, however has been reworked for this distinctive wanting watch. It’s pushed by a micro-rotor and has a contemporary, virtually symmetrical building. The Trilobe “Une Folle Journée” is a part of the everlasting assortment and retails for EUR 21,500 together with taxes.

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Fast Details – 40.5mm x 17.8mm – 10.8mm domed sapphire crystal – grade 5 titanium case, brushed and polished – sapphire caseback – screw-down crown – 50m waterproof – deconstructed show of time with rotating floating rings – fastened pointers as “palms” – black or blue DLC coated titanium rings – Calibre X-Centric, proprietary motion developed by Mojon and made by Le Cercle des Horlogers – computerized with micro-rotor – 196 parts incl. 33 jewels – 28,800vph – 48h energy reserve – hours, minutes, seconds – black or blue alligator leather-based strap with titanium pin buckle – EUR 21,500 (incl. taxes).