With most individuals’s consideration centered on the renaissance of the Gold Historiques 222 and even the skeletonised model of the Abroad throughout Watches and Wonders 2022, the presentation of Vacheron Constantin’s salmon dial chrono QP was – surprisingly – bypassed by many. Honest sufficient, Vacheron’s Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with an in-house motion has been round since 2016, so it was not a novelty. Nevertheless, what was new was the presentation of this platinum model with an attractive salmon dial, perpetuating the refined but demure existence of a mannequin that underscores Vacheron Constantin’s standing as one of many prime proponents of Swiss watchmaking.
Comparisons to Patek Philippe’s 5270 perpetual calendar and chronograph are inevitable, particularly with this newest platinum case/salmon dial combo, and welcome. Curiously, each Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin had relied on the celebrated Lemania calibre because the chronograph base for his or her perpetual calendar chronographs till Patek broke rank and launched its in-house motion with the 5270 in 2011. Vacheron Constantin adopted go well with and launched its 1142 QP calibre, which was, nevertheless, nonetheless based mostly on the Lemania chronograph however featured an in-house perpetual calendar module. Its debut was contained in the reference 5000T-00P.
Concerning specs and format, the most recent Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph follows within the footsteps of different ref. 5000T. The case measures 43mm and is crafted in platinum, and shows the traditional Traditionelle form with straight lugs, rectangular brushed pushers and the signature fluted caseback. The case has a peak of 12.94mm, and the sapphire caseback reveals the spectacular mechanics of calibre 1142 QP.
The novelty of the most recent QP chronograph is the harmonious mixture of a platinum case and salmon dial, an ensemble that evokes the good days of Vacheron Constantin’s classical watchmaking when colored dials have been thought-about the epitome of magnificence. A member of Vacheron’s elite Excellence Platine assortment comprised of restricted editions fabricated from platinum, the watch will probably be produced in restricted annual portions and offered completely at Vacheron Constantin boutiques.
We’ve seen this mannequin in platinum with a sober darkish gray dial and in pink gold with a white dial, however I’ve to confess that this platinum/salmon mixture is essentially the most lovely of the lot. The refined heat glow of the opaline salmon dial is entrancing and contrasts fantastically with the gleaming white polished platinum surfaces of the case. Trying carefully on the dial, you’ll discover the spectacular quantity of particulars and finishings that enrich the spectacle and foster legibility.
Beginning with the chronograph features, the painted tachymetre scale on the periphery of the dial used to measure common velocity is picked out in a lighter pink color with darker markings aligned with the numerals (base 1000). The truth is, the lighter pink-coloured observe additionally seems on the marginally recessed small seconds at 9 o’clock and the 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. All three tracks are, in flip, set on a round satin-brushed ring and the horizontal counters additional distinguished by their snailed interiors. Mixed with the blue central chronograph seconds hand and the blue hand for the elapsed 30-minutes, these small but extremely efficient design particulars actually assist the chronograph features stand out. Though they won’t be perceived at first look, there are some refined modifications on the dial. One, for instance, is the tiny bit of additional house between the date ring and the minutes observe in comparison with the sooner fashions that appear to invade the observe. One other refined replace – and I’m hazarding a guess – is that the utilized white gold hour markers are barely longer.
The times and months are displayed in two bevelled rectangular home windows above the axis of the central arms, and the bissextile year seems in an oval-shaped aperture simply above the 30-min chronograph counter. A pointer-style date counter at 6 o’clock, with odd numbers displayed on a round satin-brushed ring, is dwelling to the moon section indicator. The Man-in-the-Moon face is depicted on a platinum disc with raised polished moons surrounded by stars on a frosted background. The face of the Moon has two expressions: smiling and unhappy.
One other function that distinguishes this mannequin is the brand new interpretation of the Maltese cross that now seems in pink gold with faceted arms which were sandblasted on one facet and polished on the opposite. Final however not least, the incorporation of blue arms for the chronograph features and the date is new and contrasts fantastically with the salmon dial.
The manual-winding calibre 1142 QP contained in the Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is likely one of the most extremely prized calibres amongst collectors. Primarily based on the historic Lemania 2310 column-wheel chronograph – you’ll be able to nonetheless see the historic Y-shaped or wishbone-shaped bridge alla VC and the column wheel with a Maltese cross – there have been some in-house modifications/enhancements. Probably the most noticeable one, after all, is the addition of a perpetual calendar module, whereas the frequency has additionally been adjusted to 3Hz as a substitute of the historic 2.5Hz, purportedly to extend reliability and shock-resistance. Lastly, the calibre1142 QP options the Geneva Seal, certifying the excessive stage of ending of each the calibre as properly the ending of the watch as an entire, an extra accolade. The finishings of the motion embrace a circular-grained mainplate, Côtes de Genève on the bridges, hand-bevelled parts and straight-grained flanks.
Clearly, the mix of a historic chronograph motion with a perpetual calendar is a technical gem and one that can appeal to collectors. Add to this the attractive platinum/salmon interpretation, and the aesthetic worth of the watch soars. Briefly, the watch may need been eclipsed by the noise of different novelties throughout Watches and Wonders, however it is going to be avidly coveted by a couple of discerning collectors.
The Salmon Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum comes on a blue hand-stitched alligator leather-based strap with a platinum folding buckle. The value is EUR 121,250 (excl. taxes). It will likely be solely accessible via Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.
For extra data, please go to www.vacheron-constantin.com.