A. Lange & Söhne is held in excessive regard by many watch aficionados for a lot of causes, however one of many Saxon model’s most admired traits is its capability to embrace conventional watchmaking whereas nonetheless being endlessly creative in its pursuits of contemporary designs, applied sciences, and supplies. Within the new Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, introduced at this time on the anniversary of the corporate’s founding, Lange brings three of its modern improvements collectively in a single timepiece.
The three phrases of the watch’s title determine every of its speaking factors. The unique Zeitwerk mannequin, famously launched in 2009, was groundbreaking in its use of a “digital” time show, mechanically pushed by three disks with three units of leaping numerals. This newest mannequin has a case product of Lange’s proprietary Honey Gold, an alloy that’s more durable than conventional gold alloys and achieves its distinctively heat gloss from a particular warmth therapy and mineral components. Launched in 2010, Honey Gold is used very sparingly by the Saxon manufacture, solely on very uncommon and restricted fashions, most just lately in final 12 months’s Homage to F.A. Lange editions. Lastly, making the timepiece moreover particular is its semi-transparent “Lumen” dial, whose light-permeable therapy permits the numerals on the disk to glow in the dead of night. Just like the Honey Gold alloy, the primary Lumen version (on the time known as “Luminous”) debuted in 2010; this shall be solely the fifth mannequin within the uncommon collection, and the primary since 2018’s Datograph Up/Down Lumen. Most notably, it is usually the primary watch within the Lumen collection to make use of a Honey Gold case.
Lange being Lange, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen,” which is proscribed to 200 items, additionally boasts a brand new in-house motion, Caliber L043.9, which doubles its predecessor’s energy reserve to 72 hours. In different respects, the motion continues the mechanical custom of earlier Zeitwerks, with two disks for the tens and items working in live performance with an hour ring of leaping numerals that spans all the diameter of the caliber. All of the numerals are the identical dimension and change exactly from one minute to the following for an intuitive left-to-right studying of the time. On the high of every hour, all three disks change concurrently by one increment. Because of the Lumen therapy, the numerals not framed within the apertures of the standard Zeitwerk curved “time bridge” that dominates the sapphire dial are uncovered to UV mild together with those which might be, thus enabling them to glow a ghostly inexperienced within the background. Balancing out the dial’s symmetrical structure are a big small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a semicircular power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. For this model of the Zeitwerk, Lange used black rhodiumed German silver, which harmonizes with the crystal dial.
One other new function on the 41.9-mm case is the pusher at 4 o’clock, which allows the hour indication to be switched individually, permitting for simpler general setting of the time. The inclusion of this machine, which makes use of a clutch to uncouple the hour ring from the minutes mechanism every time it’s pressed, required Lange’s designers to extend the variety of motion components to 462. The minutes could be set in each instructions by the crown at 2 o’clock.
By a sapphire caseback, one can admire the exquisitely completed manually wound caliber, with two mainspring barrels to ship the ability wanted for the switching mechanism and a patented constant-force escapement. As per Lange’s requirements and in line with historic Saxon watchmaking, the motion is dominated by a three-quarter mainplate product of untreated German silver and incorporates hand engraving on the escape-wheel cocks. Its shock-resistant cam-poised steadiness, with an in-house steadiness spring, oscillates at 18,000 vph.
The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” is obtainable on a hand-stitched darkish brown leather-based strap with a prong buckle solid from the identical Honey Gold because the case. Unique to Lange’s boutiques, it’s priced at $145,000.