You are currently viewing Kaido Diver: Reviewing the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200M | Features

Kaido Diver: Reviewing the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200M | Features

Japanese watchmaker Citizen has traveled again to the ’80s to create a particular trying fashionable dive watch geared up with one of many model’s newest mechanical actions.

The 46-mm Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m is Citizen’s newest mechanical diver and reinterprets a instrument watch design from the ‘80s.

In Japanese automotive tradition, a “Kaido racer” (generally wrongly described as a “Bōsōzoku automotive”) is an especially modified Japanese avenue racing automotive, normally that includes a large chin spoiler, bolted-on fender flares, externally mounted oil coolers, huge wings, “Takeyari” exhaust pipes, wild paint schemes and so forth. You get the image. These automobiles are excessive, exaggerated rides, and they’re loud in each that means of the phrase. House owners of those extremely custom-made automobiles take inspiration from the silhouette racing automobiles from the late ‘70s to the mid-‘80s, and it seems that the designers at Citizen Watch Corp. have chosen an analogous strategy for his or her newest mechanical diver, merely named “Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m” (Ref. NB6004-08E). In 1982, the model launched the quartz-powered Skilled Diver 1300m (which briefly was the dive watch with the very best depth score). Citizen had opted for an “ultra-airtight” titanium case with 4 seen screws close to the lugs to handle the wants of saturation divers, and the knurled crown was positioned at 9 o’clock to additional improve security. In line with Citizen, the “Skilled 1300m […] with a troublesome four-sided bezel shroud round its thick and robust titanium case, was made in such a means {that a} Helium escape valve was not needed.” When it was first launched, the watch got here at a comparatively excessive worth of 180,000 yen and was consequently produced in low numbers (plus it was aimed on the small variety of professionals who would wish such a watch with distinctive water resistance). Two years later, in 1984, barely much less radical 800-meter variations have been added to the gathering, additional establishing the relatively industrial-looking design with titanium case, knurled crown and a tall, rotating bezel with trapezoid parts.

Case, caseback and bezel are manufactured from hardened titanium. Peak is 15.3 mm; size about 50 mm (lug-to-lug).

This design formulation has now been revived. In March 2021, Citizen introduced not solely the discharge of a brand new mechanical dive watch, but additionally the discharge of three Promaster Eco-Drive Diver 200m fashions (BN0220-16E, BN0227-09L, BN0228-06W). These three watches include an nearly equivalent lug-less case (sans the screws) “surrounded by a 4 angled bezel shroud and with giant indentations on the rotating bezel.” They’re additionally made out of light-weight titanium, and retain the identical signature sandblast end. Equally, the case measurement of 46.5 mm was additionally stored, which is identical as the unique from 1982, nonetheless the case thickness has been lowered barely to 14.3 mm.

The pyramid- or diamond-style texture used on the bezel will also be discovered on the dial.

In comparison with the Eco-Drive mannequin, Citizen’s new Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m comes with a diameter of 46 mm and thickness of 15.3 mm, and clearly represents an even bigger evolutionary step away from the unique from 1982, however there are a lot of of the unique’s design codes that may be discovered right here as nicely. Maybe extra importantly, Citizen has determined to equip this watch with certainly one of its new automated calibers that have been launched within the relaunched Collection 8 assortment, the Caliber 0950 and the Caliber 9051 (an evolution of the Miyota Caliber 9015). This Promaster is powered by the Caliber 9051 with central seconds hand and date, making it the model’s first dive watch to have the identical enhanced magnetic resistance of as much as 16,000 A/m, as seen within the Collection 8 assortment. To attain this, the brand new Caliber 9051 motion makes use of anti-magnetic supplies for the stability spring and surrounding elements to spice up the general magnetic resistance of the watch. In line with Citizen, “This new mannequin is able to sustaining efficiency even when positioned 1 centimeter from a tool emitting a magnetic area of 16,000 A/m.” Along with magnetic resistance, the watch additionally has ISO-compliant water resistance as much as 200 meters. The motion provides an influence reserve of 42 hours when absolutely wound, with a assured every day accuracy of -10 to +20 seconds. The hour hand, the outstanding orange minute hand, and the utilized indexes have a luminous coating to make sure excessive visibility at evening.

Because of its compact lug design and the light-weight materials, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m could be very comfy to put on. With a diameter of 46 mm, nonetheless, it additionally has loads of wrist presence.

The case has a two-piece construction and nearly acts as a semi-shroud for the tall bezel. Citizen makes use of Tremendous Titanium for the case and bezel, and applies its proprietary surface-hardening know-how, Duratect, making the watch each scratch resistant and light-weight for its measurement. The rugged, industrial look of this mannequin is enhanced by a pyramid sample on the bezel and on the degradé dial with shades that shift relying on the viewing angle. Final however not least, the trapezoid parts across the fringe of the bezel not solely present a particular look, but additionally loads of grip when utilizing the bezel.

The bezel comes with a high-raised rim, cutout markers, pyramid design sample and visual screws.

From a useful viewpoint, the legibility of the bezel inlay might have been improved (curiously, the bezel is far simpler to learn beneath water than it’s on land). The raised numbers on the inlay neither supply the specified distinction in comparison with the black background, nor does the pyramid sample, whereas being spectacular to have a look at, improve legibility — to not point out the 4 distracting screws. Then there’s the 46-mm case (15.3 mm tall and about 50 mm lug-to-lug). Being water-proof to simply 200 meters nearly comes as shock, given the substantial wrist presence of the watch. Final however not least, each the crown and bezel look like extra uncovered than on the blueprint from the ‘80s.

Legibility is great at evening.

However there’s extra to the story: Citizen’s hardened titanium normally lives as much as its popularity, and nearly no diver will ever want greater than the 200-meter water resistance provided right here. Moreover, most individuals like their crown at 3 o’clock, and nearly each collector has been complaining about dive watches trying all the identical, and Citizen not releasing extra mechanical dive watches. Then there are the extremely legible palms, and one of the convincing dive straps within the business (out there with a further growth).

A pleasant element: Citizen additionally added a luminous model of its brand to the titanium pin buckle on the urethane strap (not utilized on the non-obligatory titanium bracelet).

With the brand new Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m, Citizen has in actual fact created a watch that, on paper, ticks all of the bins. It’s a continuation of a formidable vary of dive watches, it manages to shock with a particular design (whereas nonetheless being simply identifiable as a dive watch), it makes use of a light-weight case materials and provides some intelligent useful particulars, like the security strap and tall bezel. End and high quality are glorious for a watch on this worth vary, and the domed sapphire crystal and dégradé dial with sample create an fascinating distinction to the just about futuristic-looking case. And there’s, in fact, additionally a brand new mechanical motion with elevated resistance towards magnetic fields (and comparatively conventional 42-hour energy reserve).

The black urethane strap is provided with a thicker finish piece, decreasing the chance considerably of by chance dropping the watch. For underwater use, Citizen can also be providing a further strap extension.

In brief, not in contrast to the aforementioned Kaido automobiles, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m is every part however an understated piece of engineering. On one hand, it’s certainly one of these watches which can be assured to impress a response. However, Citizen has managed surprisingly nicely to mix contrasting design parts, the model’s historic visible cues and fashionable supplies with a purpose to create a up to date dive watch that’s each surprising and refreshingly totally different.

Producer: Citizen Holdings Co., Ltd., 6-1-12, Tanashi-cho, Nishi-Tokyo-shi, Tokyo 188-8511, Japan
Reference quantity: NB6004-08E
Capabilities: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Motion: Citizen Caliber 9051, automated, 10/+20 seconds per day, approx. 42 hours energy reserve (when absolutely
wound), 28,800 vph, 24 jewels
Case: Tremendous titanium (Duratect), sapphire crystal, DLC on bezel inlay, waterproof to 200 m
Strap and clasp: Black polyurethane strap with titanium pin buckle
Dimensions: Diameter= 46.0 mm, top = 15.3 mm
Variations: With titanium bracelet (Ref. NB6004-83E); with inexperienced dial and DLC case (Ref. NB6006-02X); with blue dial and DLC case (Ref. NB6005-05L)
Worth: $1,050