You are currently viewing The Traditionalist: Hands-On With the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner | Features

The Traditionalist: Hands-On With the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner | Features

As of 2020, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner with no date show, which many view because the archetypal dive watch, is barely bigger and has an up to date motion but stays true to its unique design. That is our first encounter with the brand new watch.

We needed to wait a very long time for the most recent Rolex improvements in 2020. Rolex introduced a brand new technology of Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Submariner Date watches in September. These timepieces are barely bigger and are actually outfitted with new actions — the Submariner has the not too long ago unveiled Caliber 3230 and the brand new Submariner Date variations are utilizing the Caliber 3235 for the primary time. The Submariner Date gives a shocking array of shade combos whereas the Submariner with no date show stays true to its unique design. We had been capable of preview the brand new Submariner shortly after its introduction.

Upgraded Particulars End in New Proportions
If you happen to suppose a Rolex innovation means a revolution, you’ll be mistaken. However the Submariner has been modified in order that the sum of the varied particulars has resulted in a brand new watch. The diameter of the watch has grown from 40 mm to 41 mm, or extra exactly, from 40.6 mm to 41.36 mm, measured throughout the diagonal from 2 to eight o’clock. The crown guards and lugs are slimmer, however this has elevated the lug width by an entire millimeter, to 21 mm.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner - angle

These seemingly minor upgrades have modified the proportions of your complete watch — together with the primary physique of the case, bezel, dial and bracelet. This implies you’re a wholly new mannequin. If you happen to place the brand new Oyster Perpetual Submariner subsequent to its predecessor (which is being discontinued) the adjustments turn out to be obvious. The brand new Submariner appears to be like way more than only a millimeter bigger than the older model, which is because of the quite a few modifications of even the tiniest element.

Not fairly so obvious is the brand new in-house self-winding motion, Caliber 3230, as a result of simply as with every Rolex watch, it’s coated by a finely grooved caseback that’s screwed down hermetically with a particular key, and which may solely be opened by a Rolex-authorized watchmaker. The distinction within the Caliber 3235 is that there isn’t a date show on the Submariner dial.

In any other case all different options are the identical. The brand new Submariner is supplied with a Rolex-patented, modern Chronergy escapement, constituted of a nickel-phosphorous alloy. It gives superior practical reliability with excessive vitality effectivity and is immune to the results of magnetic fields. The motion additionally has an optimized model of the Rolex Parachrom hairspring.

Rolex produces the hairspring in-house from a paramagnetic alloy, which makes it as much as 10 occasions extra exact than standard hairsprings. It additionally has a particular Rolex overcoil that ensures a steady fee in all positions. The oscillator is supported by the superb Rolex- designed and patented Paraflex antishock system. Because of the upper effectivity of the escapement and barrel design, each the Caliber 3230 and the Caliber 3235 have an influence reserve of 70 hours. Along with the chronometer check from COSC, the watch should additionally cross the strict inside Rolex check for a “Superlative Chronometer” which, in keeping with the present specs from 2015, permits a deviation of not more than 2 seconds per day.

The Submariner comes from a time when dive watches had been used extra for skilled purposes than for leisure diving. For that reason, they continue to be true to their unique enchantment right now — since studying the time clearly throughout a dive is a matter of life and dying. The clear and easy Submariner dial has due to this fact remained unchanged. The hour and minutes fingers are tailored from the Rolex Deepsea and are distinct from each other with the intention to forestall any confusion. The triangle, circle and rectangle markers are designed to offer orientation and elevated legibility, and to stop doable errors underwater or on dry floor. The fingers and markers are coated with Rolex Chromalight luminous materials and glow brilliant blue at the hours of darkness. The distinguished dot on the finish of the seconds hand serves as a operate examine and can also be luminescent. As well as, the zero marker on the dive bezel can also be stuffed with the identical luminous materials to offer higher orientation when setting dive occasions.

The Dive Watch Stands Out with Technical Options
The bezel ratchets completely, counterclockwise, in crisp half-minute increments. Deeply knurled grooves across the edge present a safe grip for moist fingers or diving gloves. The rotating ring has a numerical Cerachrom insert fabricated from a particular black ceramic. The recessed numerals and markers on the 60-minute observe are coated with a skinny layer of platinum utilizing a PVD course of. Rolex developed experience and an modern manufacturing course of to create a sturdy, color-saturated and very scratch-resistant particular ceramic for the manufacturing of monobloc bezels and tracks, and now has its personal totally unbiased manufacturing of ceramic elements.

The bezel with its ceramic insert is a part of the sturdy Oyster case for which Rolex ensures a strain resistance of 30 bar, akin to a water depth of 300 meters. It’s the epitome of sturdiness and reliability. Its case body is manufactured from a single block of chrome steel that’s terribly immune to corrosion, which Rolex calls “Oystersteel.” Along with the hermetically sealed caseback, the Triplock winding crown additionally ensures the required water resistance with its triple seal, screw-down design and protecting crown guards. The highest crystal is fabricated from scratch-resistant sapphire. The Submariner Date provides a cyclops magnifier at 3 o’clock for enhanced legibility of the date.

The brand new Submariner is supplied with an Oyster bracelet, together with its patented Oysterlock folding security clasp and Glidelock extension system, which permits the bracelet to be merely prolonged as much as 20 mm utilizing a 10-step sliding ingredient. A lot perfection wants no revolution to stay the undisputed customary amongst dive watches.

Producer: Rolex S.A., Rue François Dussaud 3-5, 1211 Geneva, Switzerland
Reference quantity: 124060
Features: Hours, minutes, middle sweep seconds, dive bezel
Motion: Rolex Caliber 3230, automated, chronometer, 28,800 vph, 31 jewels, Paraflex shock absorber, Rolex paramagnetic steadiness with 4 gold Microstella adjusting screws, blue Parachrom paramagnetic hairspring, COSC certification, Rolex Superlative Chronometer high quality seal (+/- 2 seconds per day after casing), 70-hour energy reserve, diameter = 29.3 mm, peak = 6.20 mm
Case: Oystersteel, bezel with Cerachrom insert, sapphire crystal above dial, waterproof to 300 meters
Bracelet and cla­­sp: Oystersteel bracelet with Oysterlock security folding clasp with Glidelock extension
Dimensions: Diameter = 41.36 mm, lug width = 21 mm built-in, peak = 12.40 mm
Variations: Variations of the Submariner Date (particulars right here )
Value: $8,100